I just changed the spark plugs, and now when I try to start my truck it makes awful popping sounds, with a puff of smoke. I tried to make sure I didn%26#039;t get too much debris in the engine, but I%26#039;m hoping that%26#039;s only it. I%26#039;m pretty confident that I didn%26#039;t mix up any of the spark plug leads, and I started it earlier today just fine.|||did you make sure they was the same reach and everything,because other than them not being gaped right it should have run pretty good,go back over the firing order those are easy to cross up,one plug wire crossed will cause this,and you may have did like i did once, i bought a bad set of spark plugs,people say it cant happen,but it can,i bought a new set of ac delco plugs for a v-6 engine,and 2 of them was dead as a door nail and it made my truck back fire real bad,id go back over it and check it good,anythings possible,good luck with it.|||you have either a loose spark plug wire, its shorting to ground or its a spark jumping around a bad plug. might have loosened up|||Sounds like you have the plug wires mixed up. You need to go back and look at the manual and make sure you have them in the right spot. Also check the gap in your plugs.|||When you change new spark plugs, you should ALWAYS calibrate the new ones to whatever specifications your truck has. There%26#039;s usually a sticker under the hood that says the year, engine size, and the spark plug gap, they%26#039;re usually around 0.045%26quot;, and you will need a spark plug gapper to set them.|||You definitely have your plug wires crossed up. In the future only change one plug at a time removing and replacing each wire as you go.|||double check your wiring order,|||Mostly it could be a problem of any leakage of current,please check your sparkplug cables and also the correct connection..
All the best
Nataraj
bahrain|||Sounds like you%26#039;ve got a few plug wires reversed check your firing order and make sure all wires are on the right plugs. **** luck!
Friday, June 3, 2011
Changing spark plugs on a 99 Pontiac Montana?
Does anyone know how or an easy way to change the rear spark plugs on a 99 Pontiac Montana?|||I had the same problem with a Lumina, remove those dog bones (motor torque struts) that hang from the top of the radiator to the front side of the motor. Take them all the way off if you want. With those off , push the van forward ( while in park) and the motor will move forward a few inches for more clearance from the fire wall. I was able to put a piece of wood( small 2X4) in between the fire wall and the valve cover to keep the car from rocking back. You can also block the wheels if someone else can keep the car from rocking back. If the wires have never been off, they will most likely break. There isn%26#039;t enough room or long enough arm to get them from the bottom of the van. The plugs and plug boots sit deep in the valley between the exhaust manifold , I taped the extension and spark plug socket together so they would not separate after I got the plugs back in. Remember .....one at a time every time.|||Newer cars are frequently the victims of exceedingly tight engine compartments, however it can be done. Often times on an application such as your i would recommend trying to come through the bottom of the car while it is safely jacked up or on a life and attempt to remove the plugs from below. If that dosent work, attempt to use varying sizes of ratchet extenders and find the right combination through trial and error.
Help with changing spark plug in lawnmore?
The lawn more is a ride on. I took the spark plug out, and before I go to buy a new one to replace it, I need to know the fitting. Here is the plug I have in at the min
- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oregon-Gator-Spark-Plug-No-77-301-1_W0QQitemZ270390706338QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef48ac0a2%26amp;_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177%26amp;_trkparms=|293:1|294:50
I can%26#039;t just buy that one because it%26#039;s form America. Shipping costs too much. Is there any particular type of fitting on that plug that suits the engine? How do I know what type of plug to buy?|||It may be more productive to thoroughly clean and reuse the existing one.They don%26#039;t wear out in lawn mower motors,they simply become coated with carbon and may need to be re gapped.A wire brush will renew it or a small sand blaster is best.|||Your local shop should be able to cross reference the plug. If you cant find one send me a message and I will ship you some.|||pretty much only a couple types of lawn mower plugs and look at one and see it and get pretty much any where parts store walmarts kmart about two bucks goes in same way it come out dont over tighten it doesnt matter what type just what size only a couple sizes of and thats the number on plugs but you cant really get the worng one if you just look at size of nut like 5/8 or 3/4 maybe 11/16 plug wrench you used to remove it get one same size and you got right one type into search box
how to replace spark plug lawn mower
- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Oregon-Gator-Spark-Plug-No-77-301-1_W0QQitemZ270390706338QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef48ac0a2%26amp;_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177%26amp;_trkparms=|293:1|294:50
I can%26#039;t just buy that one because it%26#039;s form America. Shipping costs too much. Is there any particular type of fitting on that plug that suits the engine? How do I know what type of plug to buy?|||It may be more productive to thoroughly clean and reuse the existing one.They don%26#039;t wear out in lawn mower motors,they simply become coated with carbon and may need to be re gapped.A wire brush will renew it or a small sand blaster is best.|||Your local shop should be able to cross reference the plug. If you cant find one send me a message and I will ship you some.|||pretty much only a couple types of lawn mower plugs and look at one and see it and get pretty much any where parts store walmarts kmart about two bucks goes in same way it come out dont over tighten it doesnt matter what type just what size only a couple sizes of and thats the number on plugs but you cant really get the worng one if you just look at size of nut like 5/8 or 3/4 maybe 11/16 plug wrench you used to remove it get one same size and you got right one type into search box
how to replace spark plug lawn mower
Changing spark plugs in a 2000 dodge stratus?
Is it difficult to change the spark plugs in a stratus? I was under the impression that because of the way the engine sits in the car that the plugs are hard to get to. Is this correct or not? My hubby is good with cars but has never worked on a dodge before.
Is there any website that I can use to help or at least find out where the plugs are at?
Thanks in advance for the help.|||Could you give us the engine size PLEASE. I have a 4 cylinder Stratus in the drive way and the plugs are pretty obvious, but that might not be the case with the 6 cylinder.|||that car should be pretty easy. its always a good idea to get a repair manual to help you along.|||go to autozone.com they will show you how to remove and replace spark plug vary helpful site.
Is there any website that I can use to help or at least find out where the plugs are at?
Thanks in advance for the help.|||Could you give us the engine size PLEASE. I have a 4 cylinder Stratus in the drive way and the plugs are pretty obvious, but that might not be the case with the 6 cylinder.|||that car should be pretty easy. its always a good idea to get a repair manual to help you along.|||go to autozone.com they will show you how to remove and replace spark plug vary helpful site.
Changing Spark Plugs in a Toyota Matrix?
I do most work on my 2004 Toyota Matrix XR (oil, air filter, coolant, tire rotation, transmission fluid, etc.) and will need to change my spark plugs soon. Is there anything special I need to know about changing the plugs in a Matrix? Most cars I%26#039;ve worked on have been pretty straightforward, but I want to be sure before I do anything.|||nothing special just make sure engine is cold and don%26#039;t over tighten and make sure to use a good japan plug like denso or ngk
iridium tip|||I would imagine that the motor is pretty straight forward. And the sparkplugs pull out just like many of the other Toyota%26#039;s|||I always change them when the engine is cold.Aluminum heads strip real easy. I would use Autolite Plati. plugs. the other plugs like bosch or Iridium plugs use a fine wire for the electrode.The spark is to small. I had gotten worse gas mileage with them. Autolites I run them 90,000 before changing.|||Check with the manufacturer on the plugs. My Honda took NGK plugs, as most Toyotas do as well. I would look into it, because it does have an affect on how the car performas.
Spark plugs are fairly straight forward, if you hav a torque wrench it makes it easier. But you can follow one rule, tighten with the rachet until it stops, then give it one more quarter turn and your good. Also get yourself a Gapping tool. Looks like a coin with different sizes on each side. Under the hood where the engine sticker is, it will tell you the gap for the plugs. Plugs do not come pre-gapped. Also get a small packet of Anti-seize to put on the threads, it helps go in smoother and come out easier.|||Straight forward replacement. Make sure you use a light coating of anti seize on the threads. Also use Denso SK16R11 for the standard car if you have the XRS model use SK20R11.|||I%26#039;d make sure you have a long extension on your ratchet for reaching down inside DOHC engines. I would recommend using a torque wrench. Spark plugs will be changed frequently over the life of the vehicle, and you don%26#039;t want to be messing up the threads in your cylinder head (torque should be about 20 ft lbs). Nearly all Japanese cars use NGK or Denso sparkplugs. NGK does also sell pre-gapped plugs as well. A proper feeler gauge is more accurate that those disk style ones if you%26#039;re doing your own gapping. Get some dielectric gel and put some on the inside of the sparkplug boot to keep it from sticking to the plug, and to reduce the chance of corrosion on the terminals. When you take your old plugs out, have a look at the color too. Here%26#039;s a chart of different sparkplug conditions:
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_catalo鈥?/a>
iridium tip|||I would imagine that the motor is pretty straight forward. And the sparkplugs pull out just like many of the other Toyota%26#039;s|||I always change them when the engine is cold.Aluminum heads strip real easy. I would use Autolite Plati. plugs. the other plugs like bosch or Iridium plugs use a fine wire for the electrode.The spark is to small. I had gotten worse gas mileage with them. Autolites I run them 90,000 before changing.|||Check with the manufacturer on the plugs. My Honda took NGK plugs, as most Toyotas do as well. I would look into it, because it does have an affect on how the car performas.
Spark plugs are fairly straight forward, if you hav a torque wrench it makes it easier. But you can follow one rule, tighten with the rachet until it stops, then give it one more quarter turn and your good. Also get yourself a Gapping tool. Looks like a coin with different sizes on each side. Under the hood where the engine sticker is, it will tell you the gap for the plugs. Plugs do not come pre-gapped. Also get a small packet of Anti-seize to put on the threads, it helps go in smoother and come out easier.|||Straight forward replacement. Make sure you use a light coating of anti seize on the threads. Also use Denso SK16R11 for the standard car if you have the XRS model use SK20R11.|||I%26#039;d make sure you have a long extension on your ratchet for reaching down inside DOHC engines. I would recommend using a torque wrench. Spark plugs will be changed frequently over the life of the vehicle, and you don%26#039;t want to be messing up the threads in your cylinder head (torque should be about 20 ft lbs). Nearly all Japanese cars use NGK or Denso sparkplugs. NGK does also sell pre-gapped plugs as well. A proper feeler gauge is more accurate that those disk style ones if you%26#039;re doing your own gapping. Get some dielectric gel and put some on the inside of the sparkplug boot to keep it from sticking to the plug, and to reduce the chance of corrosion on the terminals. When you take your old plugs out, have a look at the color too. Here%26#039;s a chart of different sparkplug conditions:
http://opc.mr2oc.com/online_parts_catalo鈥?/a>
What is the spark plug firing sequence of the yamaha xj650 maxim 1984 model?
I was changing spark plug and ive mixed up the wires. What should I do?|||One of the coils fires the 1 %26amp; 4 spark plugs. The other fires the 2 %26amp; 3.
The coil with the longest wire, connect that up to either the 1 or 4 spark plugs. Which ever fits best. Then connect the other wire (from that coil) to the other 1 or 4.
The rest, connect to the 2 %26amp; 3 spark plugs (it doesn%26#039;t matter which).
The coil with the longest wire, connect that up to either the 1 or 4 spark plugs. Which ever fits best. Then connect the other wire (from that coil) to the other 1 or 4.
The rest, connect to the 2 %26amp; 3 spark plugs (it doesn%26#039;t matter which).
How to change spark plug wires on 1999 Ford F150?
Does anyone know how to change the spark plug wires on a 1999 Ford F150 5.4L engine? I cant find any manuals on the internet with detailed explanations. Also, a picture diagram would be very helpful.|||you really don%26#039;t need a diagram, it%26#039;s simple. just take 1 off at a time and replace it with the same size wire then continue to do that 1 at a time untill you are finished.|||take the wires off one at a time and replace them one at a time, not very hard to do|||exaccery, additionally you could label each wire with marker or white out beforehand in case you get confused.|||You can buy a Chilton book in any auto parts store. That describe how to do it not big pictures but is there but also can help you for future issues.
If you replace the spark plugs wires don%26#039;t forget to change everything else if you haven%26#039;t done it like distributor cap and rotor plus spark plugs.
Someone suggested to take one by one that is a good idea for someone that never has done it. If you change the distributor cap you can also write with a permanent marker the spark plug number so you can keep track of where they suppose to be plug.
Hope it helps.
If you replace the spark plugs wires don%26#039;t forget to change everything else if you haven%26#039;t done it like distributor cap and rotor plus spark plugs.
Someone suggested to take one by one that is a good idea for someone that never has done it. If you change the distributor cap you can also write with a permanent marker the spark plug number so you can keep track of where they suppose to be plug.
Hope it helps.
How much to cost the labor fee on change spark plug for the 93 lexus es300 v6?
i have the parts. just want to know how much to change the spark plugs? and fuel filter?|||Spark plugs you could do yourself easily with a socket wrench. Fuel filter would vary depending on the shop.|||if u can get sum1 on the strret to do ur spark plugs not much, but that fuel filter will cost ya, because you have to pull out the gas tank to get to it.
Changing spark plugs in 2001 pontiac bonneville?
i decided to change the spark plugs in my bonneville this week. ive taken off the front four and one of the back ones. they are so difficult to take off by themselves and the last two are very hard to reach too. i spent over an hour on the back one. the front took a long time also. is this normal. the plug wires are like a thick rubber and have a metal shield around them. the engines is a 3800 V6 not supercharged. how can i get these wires off more easily?
thanks|||I%26#039;ve had to change many of thoes (I work in a garage) and they still cause problems. Are you just pulling the wires off with your hands or a spark plug wire puller? by pulling them by hand you have a chance of breaking the wires inside and damaging the wires. Also the wires should be looked at and replaced if needed. Same with the cap and rotor (if not and electric distributor, I can%26#039;t remember on that engine) as for the last two plugs, take spark plug puller pliers and bend the end to a 90 degree angle, I did that to the ones in my tool box, and it works a lot better. and that metal shield is a heat shield, so when you get them off, make sure you put them back on, or else you can damage with wires with the heat of the exhause manifold. Also, there should be 3 plugs in the front, and 3 in the back, so the front four?|||like most newer cars im sure its a front wheel drive so the motor is sideways,this sucks...i have a galant and they ended up having to remove the intake manifold to get to the back plugs.have you tried coming up from under the car?get it on jack stands in the front, but leave the floor jack for extra support,try to get it high enough to where you body fits under the car,make sure IT IS FIRM.shake it to make sure its stable.once i did this to my pontiac grand am, and bam.i had acess to the plugs.good luck|||OK are you ready? There is a solid engine strut mounted from the engine to a front mount. Get a coat hanger ready, remove the nut and bolts on the BOth sides of the mount and remove the strut. You will need a pry bar or something close to it to now pull the motor to the front of the car, engine will move a good 3 -4 inches. I think at this point yo will understand what the hanger is for, if you have help would nice for them to loop the hanger through the mount holes that you just moved to hold the engine forward. this will give you as much room as you can get. Good Luck to you. Dennis|||patience is a virtue - or take it to your nearest gm dealer for $100/hour|||Wow, if its so hard maybe some moisture got into the boot of the wire. Well, either way, you should get a good set of automotive socket wrenches with an extension and a socket made specically for removing spark plugs. You could get a breaker bar too, but you prolly shouldn%26#039;t need it for spark plugs.|||amigo,. you must remove front engine mounts. in park push car back wards, engine will flip forward,. this Will make it a breeze to change,. i recommend to replace your wire too,.after wires are pullout they get damage.this will save you a lot of trouble..|||I didn%26#039;t any plugs could get off themselves, but if you talk to the others real sweet , maybe they will too...|||When you change your spark plugs, invest in the wires also... they may be replacement plugs (hopefully), and sometimes, different vehicles will have the wire size precise with the plugs that are installed by the manufacturer. Sounds really dumb, it is true.
thanks|||I%26#039;ve had to change many of thoes (I work in a garage) and they still cause problems. Are you just pulling the wires off with your hands or a spark plug wire puller? by pulling them by hand you have a chance of breaking the wires inside and damaging the wires. Also the wires should be looked at and replaced if needed. Same with the cap and rotor (if not and electric distributor, I can%26#039;t remember on that engine) as for the last two plugs, take spark plug puller pliers and bend the end to a 90 degree angle, I did that to the ones in my tool box, and it works a lot better. and that metal shield is a heat shield, so when you get them off, make sure you put them back on, or else you can damage with wires with the heat of the exhause manifold. Also, there should be 3 plugs in the front, and 3 in the back, so the front four?|||like most newer cars im sure its a front wheel drive so the motor is sideways,this sucks...i have a galant and they ended up having to remove the intake manifold to get to the back plugs.have you tried coming up from under the car?get it on jack stands in the front, but leave the floor jack for extra support,try to get it high enough to where you body fits under the car,make sure IT IS FIRM.shake it to make sure its stable.once i did this to my pontiac grand am, and bam.i had acess to the plugs.good luck|||OK are you ready? There is a solid engine strut mounted from the engine to a front mount. Get a coat hanger ready, remove the nut and bolts on the BOth sides of the mount and remove the strut. You will need a pry bar or something close to it to now pull the motor to the front of the car, engine will move a good 3 -4 inches. I think at this point yo will understand what the hanger is for, if you have help would nice for them to loop the hanger through the mount holes that you just moved to hold the engine forward. this will give you as much room as you can get. Good Luck to you. Dennis|||patience is a virtue - or take it to your nearest gm dealer for $100/hour|||Wow, if its so hard maybe some moisture got into the boot of the wire. Well, either way, you should get a good set of automotive socket wrenches with an extension and a socket made specically for removing spark plugs. You could get a breaker bar too, but you prolly shouldn%26#039;t need it for spark plugs.|||amigo,. you must remove front engine mounts. in park push car back wards, engine will flip forward,. this Will make it a breeze to change,. i recommend to replace your wire too,.after wires are pullout they get damage.this will save you a lot of trouble..|||I didn%26#039;t any plugs could get off themselves, but if you talk to the others real sweet , maybe they will too...|||When you change your spark plugs, invest in the wires also... they may be replacement plugs (hopefully), and sometimes, different vehicles will have the wire size precise with the plugs that are installed by the manufacturer. Sounds really dumb, it is true.
Would changing spark plugs help with my car?
When I come to a stop my vehicle idles from 600-800 RPM. The tach goes up and down but when I%26#039;m driving it%26#039;s constant. The spark plugs haven%26#039;t been changed the last 70k miles. thanks!|||how old is your car and what is the mileage? also what type of car are we talking about?|||It ain%26#039;t gonna hurt! But you may find that your idle still %26quot;hunts%26quot; up %26amp; down. You never mentioned what kind of car you have- but check your fuel filter.|||yes it would|||if it is an fuel injected car it needs the injecters and stuff cleaned that would help. the spark plugs would help too they want hurt.|||Might not help, but certainly won%26#039;t hurt anything. Really need more info to answer accurately.|||This problem sounds like a throttle position sensor problem.|||YES!!! When i bought my 2005 Dodge Neon, the dealer told me i wouldn%26#039;t need to change my plugs for 100,000 miles. Well, he lied. After recently thumbing thru my owners manual, i got to the service section and it recommended replacing the plugs at 30,000 miles,.....Ouch!! My car now has 68,000 miles on it. I replaced them last week with Bosch Platinum plugs. Bosch advertises %26quot;up to 20% increase in performance and fuel mileage.%26quot; I haven%26#039;t noticed much fuel mpg increase, but the acceloration is definitly much quicker, especially in 2nd and 3rd gear. I also changed the air filter and the car gets up to 75mph quick. I turned my pussycat into a little tiger with just a few good quality plugs. Good Luck!!|||It certainly won%26#039;t hurt. Give it a try to see if it fixes the erratic idle.
Changing spark plugs on a 99 Cad Catera?
I need help understanding how to change the spark plugs on a 99 Cad Catera. Just lifting the hood is no help. It appears the wires and plugs are covered up somehow. Please assist if you can. I want to avoid taking it to a dealership if I can.|||The spark plugs are located under the upper plenum on this vehicle. When you open the hood there is a large plastic cover to be removed, the upper plenum is an aluminum item typically attached by 10 to 12 bolts. Once the plenum is removed you will have access to the spark plugs. The spark plugs are platinum and expensive. It is typical to only have to replace them after 100,000 miles. If you have less you may be able to have the Fuel(induction)system service that will remove the carbon build up. Not to sound degrading but I would leave it to a professional mechanic on this ride.|||Rh side:Relieve the fuel system pressure.Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the intake manifold.Move heater hoses. Unplug electrical connection @ coil pack.Remove the coil pack retainer bolts. Remove Coil pack. Note: Gm uses a special tool in order to avoid damaging the coil pack. You can fabricate a similar device.Lh side more straight forward.|||You have to take the plastic cover off the engine.May also have to remove the upper intake plenum to reach some of them.Car is not very popular so I%26#039;m not sure if it is coil over plug or not.Hopefully a GM expert will chime in.|||look and see if you can pull the front tire and the lowwer part of the inner fender then you should be able to get to the spark plugs the is what i do to my truck 2003 frod you can bye the replacsement pins to put the inner fender back on cheap
This is so crazy because I hava the same problem with the same exact car. Did changing the spark plug work?
Maybe it was the Thompson bearings on the zorbin shaft....|||you have the same kind of problem with what?.........you tell me.....did changing the spark plug ...correct whatever problem you had?..........if you want any kind of answer that make,s sense.......your question must make sense first.
Changing spark plugs ,do you need to gap the plug, or put in as they are? if so how do you gap them,?
They should be gaped to the proper space. They work better.
Usually you use a gapping tool reaqdily available at auto parts stores. Most have different size pieces to measure the gap size and a U shaped cut out to fit over the outer electrode to bend it out or in to set the gap to proper size.
So measure, if too much space then bend outer electrode in towards centre and if too little then bend the outer electrode out to proper space.|||most plugs come pregapped but a gapper is good just to make sure.|||check them for gap
you can do this with feeler gauges the distance will be in your handbook|||old or new car, it takes only a few seconds to properly gap your plugs. It is a cheap insurance for proper ignition.|||Yes, please gap your plugs.
The gap is what is causing that spark and making your car run smoothly.
You can buy a gapper at Walmart, cheap.
if in doubt, have a shop do it. its important.|||My husband is an auto parts store manager. He says you need to gap them sometimes. You buy a tool for that at the auto parts store. It looks like a coin and the end varies in thickness in order to gap plugs at different sizes.|||u should gap them but in the real world most just look to see its not been droped...some platnum plugs shound NOT b gaped as it chips the platnum,|||Spark Plugs come with an ideal gap for that plug, changing the gap could cause weak spark, missfire, high fuel consumption etc..................just put them strait in but be carefull not to over tighten as they do crack and break......should be finger tight then just nipped up!!|||They are close out of the box, but gaping them only takes a few seconds for each one. The tool is cheap.
There are some more expensive plugs that are pre gaped.
As the spark plug gap has an impacts performance, just do it.
If they are two narrow you spread them (that is why I use a tapered gage), and if they are to wide I gently tap them on the inside of the fender well to close them.|||Buy the exact spark plug manufacturer and part number specified for your engine. Before you accept the plugs, make sure they%26#039;re gapped to the correct specified gap. You don%26#039;t want to have to attempt to regap spark plugs. You may damage them even if the damage isn%26#039;t obvious, especially for the new high technology spark plugs. Don%26#039;t buy any spark plugs that aren%26#039;t already gapped properly!|||no !spark plugs must be gaped to suite the engine their going in for best performance. they may work with out setting gap but starting and fuel economy will be sacrificed.gap them as per the auto Manuel,if no Manuel use a match book cover it,s pretty close to what the Manuel will tell you ,works in a pinch if you don%26#039;t have feller gauge to set proper gap.|||most plugs come pregapped
if youre gap is off the high voltage will not arc across the space and there will be no spark
if there is no spark you will be wasting A LOT of fuel because none of it will burn it will just go in the cylinder and go out you will clog up your exhaust because of all the liquid fuel you will have horrible performance because no combustion horrible gas mileage and maybe even a fire from the fuel touching your hot exhaust system and igniting|||Most come pre-set but you should check them with feeler gauges before fitting them in case they have been set wrong or in case your car needs them set different to the default gap.|||Today they ll come pregapped. You can check them but I have found that they are good to go out of the box.
It is a good idea to check them as they could have been damage in transport.|||you need a feeler gauge, it a bit of kit that has several fingers made of metal that are different thicknesses..and when you set the gap they will slide into the gap you have set...you can buy gap setting tools...|||they need gapped and you can get a plug gapper for little to nothing at the parts store and they will even show you how to use it.
Usually you use a gapping tool reaqdily available at auto parts stores. Most have different size pieces to measure the gap size and a U shaped cut out to fit over the outer electrode to bend it out or in to set the gap to proper size.
So measure, if too much space then bend outer electrode in towards centre and if too little then bend the outer electrode out to proper space.|||most plugs come pregapped but a gapper is good just to make sure.|||check them for gap
you can do this with feeler gauges the distance will be in your handbook|||old or new car, it takes only a few seconds to properly gap your plugs. It is a cheap insurance for proper ignition.|||Yes, please gap your plugs.
The gap is what is causing that spark and making your car run smoothly.
You can buy a gapper at Walmart, cheap.
if in doubt, have a shop do it. its important.|||My husband is an auto parts store manager. He says you need to gap them sometimes. You buy a tool for that at the auto parts store. It looks like a coin and the end varies in thickness in order to gap plugs at different sizes.|||u should gap them but in the real world most just look to see its not been droped...some platnum plugs shound NOT b gaped as it chips the platnum,|||Spark Plugs come with an ideal gap for that plug, changing the gap could cause weak spark, missfire, high fuel consumption etc..................just put them strait in but be carefull not to over tighten as they do crack and break......should be finger tight then just nipped up!!|||They are close out of the box, but gaping them only takes a few seconds for each one. The tool is cheap.
There are some more expensive plugs that are pre gaped.
As the spark plug gap has an impacts performance, just do it.
If they are two narrow you spread them (that is why I use a tapered gage), and if they are to wide I gently tap them on the inside of the fender well to close them.|||Buy the exact spark plug manufacturer and part number specified for your engine. Before you accept the plugs, make sure they%26#039;re gapped to the correct specified gap. You don%26#039;t want to have to attempt to regap spark plugs. You may damage them even if the damage isn%26#039;t obvious, especially for the new high technology spark plugs. Don%26#039;t buy any spark plugs that aren%26#039;t already gapped properly!|||no !spark plugs must be gaped to suite the engine their going in for best performance. they may work with out setting gap but starting and fuel economy will be sacrificed.gap them as per the auto Manuel,if no Manuel use a match book cover it,s pretty close to what the Manuel will tell you ,works in a pinch if you don%26#039;t have feller gauge to set proper gap.|||most plugs come pregapped
if youre gap is off the high voltage will not arc across the space and there will be no spark
if there is no spark you will be wasting A LOT of fuel because none of it will burn it will just go in the cylinder and go out you will clog up your exhaust because of all the liquid fuel you will have horrible performance because no combustion horrible gas mileage and maybe even a fire from the fuel touching your hot exhaust system and igniting|||Most come pre-set but you should check them with feeler gauges before fitting them in case they have been set wrong or in case your car needs them set different to the default gap.|||Today they ll come pregapped. You can check them but I have found that they are good to go out of the box.
It is a good idea to check them as they could have been damage in transport.|||you need a feeler gauge, it a bit of kit that has several fingers made of metal that are different thicknesses..and when you set the gap they will slide into the gap you have set...you can buy gap setting tools...|||they need gapped and you can get a plug gapper for little to nothing at the parts store and they will even show you how to use it.
Changing a Spark Plug on a Boat?
Do I need a special socket wrench to change the spark plug on a 1974 40 HP Evinrude?|||13/16 will do fine.|||A standard spark plug socket will do.
About a week after changing spark plug my check engine light came.?
i took it back to the shop that changed the plugs and they said it was a stuck lifter and needed a new engine. the vehicle chugs between 15-30 mph and engine light blinks. help me get this 2000 plymouth grand voyeger to work!!!!!!!!!!!!|||Before they convince you to put a new motor in it, have someone check the spark plugs. One may have worked lose or maybe (don%26#039;t know how much business you have done with these people) you are being set up. Have you been having engine problems? Also there are engine additives that you can get to help lifters-fuel injectors and other things that may be the problem. Definitely, get other opinions before sinking money like that into you vehicle.|||take it to another shop for a second opinion without telling the new shop what the other said. it sounds like the first shop might be trying to pull something. I have personally never changed an engine for a lifter. It%26#039;s cheaper to fix it.|||Have the vehicle scanned to show any codes. I had a similal problem with an %26#039;01 dodge pickup...turned out to be the TPS on the injector system ..TPS= throttle position sensor|||1 gas cap on tight? 2 what did the CK engine lite code say...3 sounds like loose/bad wire or plug.....4 try a can motor flush before next oil change if its really a stuck lifter...
5 yes just go to any auto parts store ask for computer scan...most are free...if they just give you a # make them look it up....[lazy bums]
more info get better answers,,,,change oil on time? how many miles..other work done/needed...|||go to autozone
get it scanned, for FREE|||A blinking CEL is an engine misfire. Could certainly be related to all the work done on it already.
Most likely NOT a lifter issue as pretty much all common engine valvetrains are hydraulic in nature...you%26#039;d be hearing a loud tap or knock from that part of the engine right now.
Definitely NOT a TPS issue.
5 yes just go to any auto parts store ask for computer scan...most are free...if they just give you a # make them look it up....[lazy bums]
more info get better answers,,,,change oil on time? how many miles..other work done/needed...|||go to autozone
get it scanned, for FREE|||A blinking CEL is an engine misfire. Could certainly be related to all the work done on it already.
Most likely NOT a lifter issue as pretty much all common engine valvetrains are hydraulic in nature...you%26#039;d be hearing a loud tap or knock from that part of the engine right now.
Definitely NOT a TPS issue.
How bad is debris in the engine? Do it yourself spark plug change gone bad ...?
I was just changing my spark plugs and a little debris found its way into the engine - small dried piece of a leaf and little fluid (coolant I believe.) Do I need to take it to a shop? Or will it be ok if I leave it alone?|||You%26#039;re fine. The leaf and fluid will get introduced to the miracle of an intake, compression, and power stroke just before the exhaust stroke sends whatever is left out the tailpipe. Replace the plugs and keep stepping. Before pulling the plugs in the future, blasting the area with some compressed air to get all that crap out of there wouldn%26#039;t be a bad idea.
Now, if you had dropped a screw in there the story would be different.|||If it is just a little bit, you should be able to blow it out by removing the spark plug and cranking the engine over. The piece of leaf will burn to ash and go out the exhaust when you start it up. The fluid will evaporate and leave the same way. A concern would be that the small dried piece of leaf may get lodged in the plug gap before it burns completely and fouls the plug, but you can remove the plug again and clean it if that happens. Its the things that don%26#039;t burn in the combustion chamber that wreak havoc on engines.|||I wouldn%26#039;t worry too much about it. You can leave the spark plug out while cranking the engine over for a couple of seconds. The remnants of the leaf will likely blow back out of the spark plug hole. The liquid that remains within the cylinder will evaporate when you restart the engine and the cylinder goes through the combustion process. As long as it was just a few droplets, it should be fine. If you somehow managed to pour in something like half a cup of liquid into the cylinder, that%26#039;s a different story...liquids do not compress and that would mean a broken piston and/or a bent rod.
I agree with the post suggesting to blow out any debris in the spark plug crevice before removing the spark plugs next time to avoid the same thing happening again.|||if it is in the cylinder try to vaccum it out. you could also get a rad on the end of a pair of needlenose pliers and try to wipe up the coolant and grab the leaf. You really shouldn%26#039;t try to start it with the stuff in there, especially the coolant.|||If you can get hold of a vacuum suck it out or let the plug out and turn the engine over a few times that should push it out the same hole it went in. If you have liquid in there you want to get it out asap.I don%26#039;t think either way will cause any damage|||You mean it fell through the spark plug hole into the cylinder? if that%26#039;s all it was, a little fluid and a leaf, don%26#039;t worry. There is no problem.
Now, if you had dropped a screw in there the story would be different.|||If it is just a little bit, you should be able to blow it out by removing the spark plug and cranking the engine over. The piece of leaf will burn to ash and go out the exhaust when you start it up. The fluid will evaporate and leave the same way. A concern would be that the small dried piece of leaf may get lodged in the plug gap before it burns completely and fouls the plug, but you can remove the plug again and clean it if that happens. Its the things that don%26#039;t burn in the combustion chamber that wreak havoc on engines.|||I wouldn%26#039;t worry too much about it. You can leave the spark plug out while cranking the engine over for a couple of seconds. The remnants of the leaf will likely blow back out of the spark plug hole. The liquid that remains within the cylinder will evaporate when you restart the engine and the cylinder goes through the combustion process. As long as it was just a few droplets, it should be fine. If you somehow managed to pour in something like half a cup of liquid into the cylinder, that%26#039;s a different story...liquids do not compress and that would mean a broken piston and/or a bent rod.
I agree with the post suggesting to blow out any debris in the spark plug crevice before removing the spark plugs next time to avoid the same thing happening again.|||if it is in the cylinder try to vaccum it out. you could also get a rad on the end of a pair of needlenose pliers and try to wipe up the coolant and grab the leaf. You really shouldn%26#039;t try to start it with the stuff in there, especially the coolant.|||If you can get hold of a vacuum suck it out or let the plug out and turn the engine over a few times that should push it out the same hole it went in. If you have liquid in there you want to get it out asap.I don%26#039;t think either way will cause any damage|||You mean it fell through the spark plug hole into the cylinder? if that%26#039;s all it was, a little fluid and a leaf, don%26#039;t worry. There is no problem.
How do I change spark plugs and replace spark plug wires on a 1987 Camaro V-6?
I am a woman and I am getting ripped off by mechanics and I need my spark plugs changed and wires replaced. I am running on about 3 cylinders right now. Please help someone|||the best advice is to replace them one at a time to avoid confusion :)|||replace one at a time, plug ,wire, that way you cant mess up anything . use anti sieze on plugs .|||you need tools, pull one boot at a time, I own an IROC Z-28, and the plugs and wires on a V-8 is a pain to change.|||TAKE A PLACE OF TAPE AND PLACE ON EACH WIRE LIKE FIRST WIRE PUT ONE PICE AND2 PUT 2 PICES AND SO ON|||Get a new car that will fix all problems.
Anyone has tips on changing spark plugs on an 88 trans am?
Does anyone has any good tips for changing the spark plugs on a 1987 trans am gta with a 350 tpi engine. there is no room and i need a little help.|||The easiest way I have found is to crawl under the car and change the back plugs from underneath. It is a huge pain but it is one of the joys of the cars. Just change all the plugs that you can get to from the top and the ones that you just can not reach change from the bottom.
Also no you can not change them through the inner fenders there are no holes to get to the plugs it will not work.|||if you cant get to it from up top try getting to it from the fenderwells|||Haven%26#039;t done that one but once owned a %26#039;63 Poncho that you had to either jack up the right side and remove the front wheel or remove the AC compressor to replace the first two plugs. There%26#039;s always a way, although it might require a bit of access work. Have you tried a universal joint on the socket yet?|||jack it up pull front tires get to them threw the wheel wells
Also no you can not change them through the inner fenders there are no holes to get to the plugs it will not work.|||if you cant get to it from up top try getting to it from the fenderwells|||Haven%26#039;t done that one but once owned a %26#039;63 Poncho that you had to either jack up the right side and remove the front wheel or remove the AC compressor to replace the first two plugs. There%26#039;s always a way, although it might require a bit of access work. Have you tried a universal joint on the socket yet?|||jack it up pull front tires get to them threw the wheel wells
Changing spark plug brands from stock?
4 months ago I had a friend give me NGK irdium IX spark plugs for 20$ for my 98 ford escort zx2. Recently I took it to a ford dealership to get a headlight fixed and they went through my engine without my consent, changing my plugs. They said that they ruin the engine and it will cost alot of money to get it fixed blah blah blah... I really miss the old plugs, is it true that they hurt the engine???|||This is very unusual. Most auto tech does not get paid for unauthorized work like this. They want to earn 8hrs a day like many of us. They will not waste any minute doing something for free like this unless you ask and pay for it. You know about the replacement so it must be written on repair order because the tech will not do anything unless it is on repair order. I don%26#039;t think any dealer tech want to risk their job for an OLD set of spark plugs.
1998 Escort has two specification spark plug and gap (0.54%26quot; and 0.50%26quot;). Is it a DOHC or SOHC. The NGK lists your spark plugs are for 1998 Escort with 0.54%26quot; gap. It is also used for other vehicle. In this case, I would not want to use it. Ford car is known for not running right if not using Motorcraft spark plugs.|||You got reamed. They stole your $8. plugs and gave you minimun requirements maybe$1. ea. Always make them give up your used parts.|||It%26#039;s possible that the wrong plugs could cause your pistons toget damaged form higher heat, they are made of aluminum. Ordinarily, if a plug maker has an application for your car listed in their catalogs, then the plugs are usually safe to use. You probably could call Ford headquarters and ask an engineer, though.|||Spark plugs come in different types and lengths, and in different heat ranges. If the non-standard plugs you installed were the wrong length or heat range for your engine, then yes, they could damage your engine, but even so... The mechanics were wrong to change them without your permission.|||It is for this very reason that I take out all the aftermarket parts that I have installed that the dealer may not like, or more likely will charge for that I don%26#039;t want replaced.
I don%26#039;t use a dealer anymore (all my cars are over 15 years old). But when I did, there was one time they went to bill me for an air cleaner (which I said I did not want when I took it in). They gave me a routine about the old one was damaged and could not be used now. I walked out to the car and took my K%26amp;N filter out of the trunk. Then I handed thiers back too them and insisted it come off the bill.
From then on they never replaced anything that I did not per-approve.
As for the spark plugs, they cheated. If you wanted to I am sure that you could take them to court and most likely win. But the cost would exceed the price of better plugs. Go get some and install them (just remember to switch them back next time before they work on it).|||WOW! WTF ???/
Go back to that piece of **** dealership ASAP and tell them that they better give you brand new plugs and install them in front of your face or else they will get their a$$ sued for every penny that they got.|||Every spark plug has certain applications. If you check NGK%26#039;s website or the book in the store you got them, make sure that these exact plugs say that they will fit your vehicle. If not, they could be the wrong length, wrong gap (some require no gapping), wrong heat specifications, etc... Either way, they should%26#039;ve consulted you first before touching your engine. You also should%26#039;ve received your NGK%26#039;s back after they messed with your ****.|||as long as those plugs are designed to go into your engine they%26#039;re fine.somebody with a similar veh prolly wanted your plugs|||Most dealers I know won%26#039;t do unauthorized work as technically you wouldn%26#039;t have to pay for it as it was unrequested.
Unless you complained about performance or a check engine light, It should have never had the plugs removed at all
If it was part of some inspection, it should have been noted to you not replaced.. best to find management or ownership and ask about this
1998 Escort has two specification spark plug and gap (0.54%26quot; and 0.50%26quot;). Is it a DOHC or SOHC. The NGK lists your spark plugs are for 1998 Escort with 0.54%26quot; gap. It is also used for other vehicle. In this case, I would not want to use it. Ford car is known for not running right if not using Motorcraft spark plugs.|||You got reamed. They stole your $8. plugs and gave you minimun requirements maybe$1. ea. Always make them give up your used parts.|||It%26#039;s possible that the wrong plugs could cause your pistons toget damaged form higher heat, they are made of aluminum. Ordinarily, if a plug maker has an application for your car listed in their catalogs, then the plugs are usually safe to use. You probably could call Ford headquarters and ask an engineer, though.|||Spark plugs come in different types and lengths, and in different heat ranges. If the non-standard plugs you installed were the wrong length or heat range for your engine, then yes, they could damage your engine, but even so... The mechanics were wrong to change them without your permission.|||It is for this very reason that I take out all the aftermarket parts that I have installed that the dealer may not like, or more likely will charge for that I don%26#039;t want replaced.
I don%26#039;t use a dealer anymore (all my cars are over 15 years old). But when I did, there was one time they went to bill me for an air cleaner (which I said I did not want when I took it in). They gave me a routine about the old one was damaged and could not be used now. I walked out to the car and took my K%26amp;N filter out of the trunk. Then I handed thiers back too them and insisted it come off the bill.
From then on they never replaced anything that I did not per-approve.
As for the spark plugs, they cheated. If you wanted to I am sure that you could take them to court and most likely win. But the cost would exceed the price of better plugs. Go get some and install them (just remember to switch them back next time before they work on it).|||WOW! WTF ???/
Go back to that piece of **** dealership ASAP and tell them that they better give you brand new plugs and install them in front of your face or else they will get their a$$ sued for every penny that they got.|||Every spark plug has certain applications. If you check NGK%26#039;s website or the book in the store you got them, make sure that these exact plugs say that they will fit your vehicle. If not, they could be the wrong length, wrong gap (some require no gapping), wrong heat specifications, etc... Either way, they should%26#039;ve consulted you first before touching your engine. You also should%26#039;ve received your NGK%26#039;s back after they messed with your ****.|||as long as those plugs are designed to go into your engine they%26#039;re fine.somebody with a similar veh prolly wanted your plugs|||Most dealers I know won%26#039;t do unauthorized work as technically you wouldn%26#039;t have to pay for it as it was unrequested.
Unless you complained about performance or a check engine light, It should have never had the plugs removed at all
If it was part of some inspection, it should have been noted to you not replaced.. best to find management or ownership and ask about this
How important is the major maintenance on a Onan generator? Is changing the oil, spark plug and filters enough
The manual says the heads need to replaced or checked every 450 hours. It is worth paying $450 for a cummins tech to look at the generator?|||It%26#039;s a gas engine they carbon up a lot%26gt; You can try running a decarbon additive%26gt; Or pull the head off%26gt;.,|||It%26#039;s a gas engine they carbon up a lot%26gt; You can try running a decarbon additive%26gt; Or pull the heads off%26gt;
How to change Spark plug on fiat punto?
I want to find out how to change the spark plugs of a fiat punto on a 03 reg.
I had a problem when i tried to remove the spark plug leads which would not come off, they were shut tight.|||If it%26#039;s a diesel the leads are threaded onto the glow plugs.
Sometimes the leads are hard to remove from a gasoline engine because heat causes them to bond to the plugs. If that%26#039;s the case you can buy a tool that makes it easier to remove the leads.
I had a problem when i tried to remove the spark plug leads which would not come off, they were shut tight.|||If it%26#039;s a diesel the leads are threaded onto the glow plugs.
Sometimes the leads are hard to remove from a gasoline engine because heat causes them to bond to the plugs. If that%26#039;s the case you can buy a tool that makes it easier to remove the leads.
Do I need to change spark plug wires on my 2003 Corrola?
I have a 2003 Toyota Corrola and I want to give it a tuneup. On my old car (1992 Integra), I had to change the spark plug wires, but the Corrola%26#039;s wires look completely different and I can%26#039;t seem to find any for sale online. Is this some new fandangled technology that doesn%26#039;t need to be changed?|||Doesn%26#039;t that model have coil-on-plug and therefore no ignition wires?
How important is a tune up or changing spark plugs?
I know changing oil is very important , but my $$ is very tight and my car hit 69,000 miles and I have 2005 PT Cruiser where I have changed the 2 spark plugs that are easy to reach but not the 2 underneath. Can I do damage by not replacing them or just suffer poor gas mileage and performance? Thanks|||Many vehicles can go over 100,000 miles before the plugs need to be replaced. It won%26#039;t damage the vehicle to have worn plugs. How did the ones you remove look? If the plug starts to misfire, you will get a check engine light. Spend your money on the things that are really important and can cause damage if neglected. Oil you%26#039;ve been doing, that is important and the other two important items would be your transmission fluid if it%26#039;s and auto and the timing belts if you have one. Neither of these may be due yet. Check your owner%26#039;s manual for service intervals.|||its not going to hurt your car if you wait to change them granted you may down the road have a break down related to them not being changed but it will be fine|||to start out, the platinum plugs that should have been in there form the beginning, do not have to be changed till about 100,000 miles. replacing only two will not have any ill effects on the engines life span, its not so great on the fuel economy, bu that is about it,|||Bad spark plugs can results in a lot of problem;
1. poor starting
2. idle rough
3. poor gas mileage
4. car wont run smoothly
Hope this help!
1. poor starting
2. idle rough
3. poor gas mileage
4. car wont run smoothly
Hope this help!
A spark plug broke while changing, and part of it fell into cylinder?
On my brothers 2000 chevy crap a lier... i mean cavalier... I was trying to change the old spark plugs becuase they are old, but the first one i was trying to change when i took the rachet off to get the spark plug out it had broken the tip, and i was able to get out the big part with the threds on, but the little part fell into the spark plug hole and is somewhere in the cylinder and i don%26#039;t know if its still in there or fell in the line and i have no idea what to do get it out.|||Ouch! That sucks. I would avoid taking the head off if you can. A magnet should work, despite what the previous reply said. You can get long, thin, flexible magnets at auto parts stores for a couple of bucks. If you have to take the head off, you%26#039;re going to spend about $50 in gaskets. If a magnet doesn%26#039;t work, try using a shop vac and rigging up a tube that you can attach to the end of the shop vac hose, and seal it up with duct tape. A tube that will fit down in the spark plug hole! |||vacuum with a very small hose attachment. i used to detail cars and have these tiny attachments so when this happened to me, i was able to do it with this.. if you do not have access to these tiny hoses and adapters im sure you could easily rig something up that would work with a bit of imagination!
|||well being a mech i can say that u wont get it out with a magnet the spark plug hole is just to small so i would suggest(only if u have the tools and the know-how,other wise take it to a mech)removing the head and the rockers and very carefully removing it! DO NOT scratch the cylinder or the piston,the tiniest difference to the side of the cylinder can be very costly,and DO NOT try to rotate the piston as this may scratch the cylinder!|||Nothing gets past the piston head but oil,so manually rotate the engine to bring the piston towards the top.Then get a small hose loose enough to play with,to fit thru the hole.get a vacuum or shop vac.tape the hose to the vacuum hose.Make sure the vacuum is empty before you start so know you got the part out....I did think about a magnet but,the part may be alluminum.|||if you cant get the piece out with a magnet ,this spark plug cost you alot of money,because you will have to take the head off to remove the piece of spark plug if not you will blow the engine up when you go to start it,so will need to buy a top half gasket head set or new engine.??? up too you..sorry to say....|||If the metal tip is still on the small part that fell into the cyl, you can try a magnet|||The only way to know is to pull the head. A tiny part of the ceramic body could have been attached to the tip. BTW, spark plug tips are made from stainless steel and a magnet will not attract stainless steel.
|||you should be able to get it out with a magnet.|||Either try a magnet or start taking the head off.
Report Abuse
|||well being a mech i can say that u wont get it out with a magnet the spark plug hole is just to small so i would suggest(only if u have the tools and the know-how,other wise take it to a mech)removing the head and the rockers and very carefully removing it! DO NOT scratch the cylinder or the piston,the tiniest difference to the side of the cylinder can be very costly,and DO NOT try to rotate the piston as this may scratch the cylinder!|||Nothing gets past the piston head but oil,so manually rotate the engine to bring the piston towards the top.Then get a small hose loose enough to play with,to fit thru the hole.get a vacuum or shop vac.tape the hose to the vacuum hose.Make sure the vacuum is empty before you start so know you got the part out....I did think about a magnet but,the part may be alluminum.|||if you cant get the piece out with a magnet ,this spark plug cost you alot of money,because you will have to take the head off to remove the piece of spark plug if not you will blow the engine up when you go to start it,so will need to buy a top half gasket head set or new engine.??? up too you..sorry to say....|||If the metal tip is still on the small part that fell into the cyl, you can try a magnet|||The only way to know is to pull the head. A tiny part of the ceramic body could have been attached to the tip. BTW, spark plug tips are made from stainless steel and a magnet will not attract stainless steel.
|||you should be able to get it out with a magnet.|||Either try a magnet or start taking the head off.
How to change spark plug wire on a 94 Taurus Station wagon?
Hi,
Can anyone tell me how to change the spark plug wires on my 94 Taurus wagon. The gas station wanted to charge us $500 to change them along with the distributor cap/rotor and spark plugs.
We found a video on how to do the others ...and its pretty straight forward. Please share any insight you may have.
Thanks|||Take the old ones off one at a time. Match it to a new one and put the new one back on in it%26#039;s place. DO NOT PULL THEM ALL OFF AT ONCE or you can easily mess up the firing order.|||They just snap on the spark plug on one side and the distributor cap on the other, just twist a little while pulling up on it. Do one at a time so you dont mix them up.|||Twist the rubber boot back and forth to remove the wire and use DIELECTRIC grease to replace them.
Can anyone tell me how to change the spark plug wires on my 94 Taurus wagon. The gas station wanted to charge us $500 to change them along with the distributor cap/rotor and spark plugs.
We found a video on how to do the others ...and its pretty straight forward. Please share any insight you may have.
Thanks|||Take the old ones off one at a time. Match it to a new one and put the new one back on in it%26#039;s place. DO NOT PULL THEM ALL OFF AT ONCE or you can easily mess up the firing order.|||They just snap on the spark plug on one side and the distributor cap on the other, just twist a little while pulling up on it. Do one at a time so you dont mix them up.|||Twist the rubber boot back and forth to remove the wire and use DIELECTRIC grease to replace them.
Changing spark plug boots?
im putting headers on my 1991 camaro 350 and 3 of the spark plug boots need to be changed from stright to a 90 degree angle. i have no idea how to do this... do you just rip the old boot off? anyone know? thanks|||you will have to buy new wires, the metal contact on the end of the wire is longer and different for the 90 degree|||Locate an auto parts store that will help you source an appropriate couple of spark plug wires with the 90 degree boot.
Alternatively, you can find a store who will create the custom wires for you, or you can buy a set of wires that you cut-and-boot with a spark plug wire tool. Just size the wire up to the existing straight one, cut at the correct length, then crimp the end on.
If you can crimp wire, you can make your own plug wires - its nothing to be nervous about.
Alternatively, you can find a store who will create the custom wires for you, or you can buy a set of wires that you cut-and-boot with a spark plug wire tool. Just size the wire up to the existing straight one, cut at the correct length, then crimp the end on.
If you can crimp wire, you can make your own plug wires - its nothing to be nervous about.
After changing the spark plug on a honda civic 2002 engine light comes on .Will it go away by itself or should?
need to have it checked to a mechanic shop?|||CEL just from changing the plugs? Make sure the spark plug wires are seated all the way - may cause a misfire code if they%26#039;re not seated correctly.
You didn%26#039;t mix up the firing order did you?....|||go down to a checkers/pep boys/autoparts or something have them run the code, i think its free, or pretty cheap at least. Then u%26#039;ll have a sure diagnosis
You didn%26#039;t mix up the firing order did you?....|||go down to a checkers/pep boys/autoparts or something have them run the code, i think its free, or pretty cheap at least. Then u%26#039;ll have a sure diagnosis
2001 F-150 changing Spark plug help?
I have a 4.6 liter V8 2001 F-150 and I am having the hardest time in the world changing the spark plugs.
At the present time, I have spent in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours and I have only been able to remove one spark plug, and I can%26#039;t get the replacement one to get in.
I have enlisted the help of a friend, (whose knowledge of vehicle maintenence surpasses my own,..... but not by much)
I will just call his name Tom, because his name is Tom.
And together that is the sum total of our accomplishments.
I have a Haynes Manual, I have researched the procedure online, and everyone says it%26#039;s a pain in the neck to do.
Any DETAILED help you can give would be GREATLY appreciated.
P.S, Tom Betterton sucks.
-Thank you.
(This is a serious question, I am at the point of murdering someone, so far I have narrowed the list to a select few, I am very sure they would appreciate any help that you can give me)|||For starters, get yourself a good set of tools (Craftsman, Snap-on or other good tools, avoid cheap tools.). including a spark plug socket, wobble extensions, 2%26quot;, 4%26quot; and 6%26quot;. A universal joint extension is sometimes needed. A standard ratchet and a flex head ratchet are both good tools to have on hand. A spark plug boot puller is a good tool to have also. A 6 inch length of vacuum hose that will fit over the end of the plug is handy putting on the top of the plug and inserting it in the spark plug hole and turning it finger tight before you tighten with a spark plug socket.
I%26#039;m not a Ford mechanic, but start by removing one plug at a time and replacing it before you go on to the next one. On some vehicles, I%26#039;ve had to remove front wheels for spark plug access or remove the plugs from underneath.
Last if you lack a lot of experience, you will need a lot of patience and a mechanic to look over your shoulder.|||In the interest of preventing an un-necessary homicide, patients is the biggest tool you need. I changed the plugs on a 97 F150 5.4L and there was one or two that were VERY hard to get to. The hardest part was getting the small nut off of the coil pack retainer. No special tools, just patients and the ability to work your finger tips in tight areas.
Good luck|||OK first of all are you sure you are turn the ratchet the right way? secondly do you have the right size ratchet? and thirdly if you have a torque wrench it should be set at 13 ft lbs....AND if you have not yet checked you must look to see if the threads on the spark plugs are striped... if the threads are gone then you are in TROUBLE and need to go to a mechanic..good luck
At the present time, I have spent in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours and I have only been able to remove one spark plug, and I can%26#039;t get the replacement one to get in.
I have enlisted the help of a friend, (whose knowledge of vehicle maintenence surpasses my own,..... but not by much)
I will just call his name Tom, because his name is Tom.
And together that is the sum total of our accomplishments.
I have a Haynes Manual, I have researched the procedure online, and everyone says it%26#039;s a pain in the neck to do.
Any DETAILED help you can give would be GREATLY appreciated.
P.S, Tom Betterton sucks.
-Thank you.
(This is a serious question, I am at the point of murdering someone, so far I have narrowed the list to a select few, I am very sure they would appreciate any help that you can give me)|||For starters, get yourself a good set of tools (Craftsman, Snap-on or other good tools, avoid cheap tools.). including a spark plug socket, wobble extensions, 2%26quot;, 4%26quot; and 6%26quot;. A universal joint extension is sometimes needed. A standard ratchet and a flex head ratchet are both good tools to have on hand. A spark plug boot puller is a good tool to have also. A 6 inch length of vacuum hose that will fit over the end of the plug is handy putting on the top of the plug and inserting it in the spark plug hole and turning it finger tight before you tighten with a spark plug socket.
I%26#039;m not a Ford mechanic, but start by removing one plug at a time and replacing it before you go on to the next one. On some vehicles, I%26#039;ve had to remove front wheels for spark plug access or remove the plugs from underneath.
Last if you lack a lot of experience, you will need a lot of patience and a mechanic to look over your shoulder.|||In the interest of preventing an un-necessary homicide, patients is the biggest tool you need. I changed the plugs on a 97 F150 5.4L and there was one or two that were VERY hard to get to. The hardest part was getting the small nut off of the coil pack retainer. No special tools, just patients and the ability to work your finger tips in tight areas.
Good luck|||OK first of all are you sure you are turn the ratchet the right way? secondly do you have the right size ratchet? and thirdly if you have a torque wrench it should be set at 13 ft lbs....AND if you have not yet checked you must look to see if the threads on the spark plugs are striped... if the threads are gone then you are in TROUBLE and need to go to a mechanic..good luck
What are the basic complete tools for changing spark plugs?
I have no problems changing the plugs on the 4 cyl where just one plug may be a bit obstructed by an alternator, but what tool set will allow me to handle all, or nearly all, plug changes without getting underneath the car or becoming a contortionist. I have one swivel socket, 5/8, an extension, and a red plastic thng I use to start the plug I%26#039;m placing into the socket which i then turn by hand, followd by a turn from the socket wrench to tighten completely. I%26#039;ve been asked to do plug changes for the local senior complex..Thanks.|||Here is a basic list of tools that will cover most of the situations you encounter:
- 5/8%26quot; thin-wall spark plug socket
- 13/16%26quot; thin-wall spark plug socket
(There are 2 different sized plugs. Make sure they are thin-walled as some plugs are recessed in small holes. Good sockets will have a rubber grip insert inside to hold the plug while you remove it so it doesn%26#039;t fall, you could also use it as a plug starter %26amp; leave it on the plug and just plug in the extension %26amp; tighten. You can also get sockets that have built-in swivels on the ends that you can use with the one you already have if needed.)
- 3/8%26quot; drive ratchet
- 3/8%26quot; drive extensions of various lengths (1%26quot;, 3%26quot;, 5%26quot; 11%26quot;, 19%26quot; are the ones I have and can be combined together as needed. The reason for the long ones are that sometimes the best way to access plugs are through the wheel well with the car jacked up slightly. Also nice for plugs in the back so that you aren%26#039;t crawling onto the car to reach them.)
- flashlight
- mirror on an pivotable extension shaft (they make them just for automotive type of work. Get a decent sized mirror of 2%26quot;x4%26quot; or so to make it easy to use.)
- plug gap gauge (usually around $1-$2 at an auto parts store)
- can of compressed air (to blow dirt out around the base of the plug before removing it (find at most computer stores around $2-$4)
- plug wire puller may help for those tight spots
Sometimes it is necessary to move or remove engine parts (i.e. alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor, etc..) to gain access to certain plugs. A good set of metric and SAE combination wrenches and 3/8%26quot; drive sockets can come in handy.
Hope that helps. Best of luck.|||quality sockets with a nice fitting rubber, preferablly with an extension built in so as not to drop or pulloff...and a way to clean the area around the plug before removing.. allways hand start the new plug (after a gap check) with a low torque devise like an old plugwire boot or length of fueline hose.. if it doesn%26#039;t FEEL right going in it may be crossthreaded...and always wait for the engine to cool... best is overnight before removing plugs from allow heads..|||the basic tools are a socket, extension, ratchet, and a spark plug gap gauge....don%26#039;t take for granted that the plugs will come pre-set. you may also want a wire puller...just so you don%26#039;t mess your spark pug wires up. i know it sounds easy to change plugs in your car, but there is much more to it than you think....best of luck
- 5/8%26quot; thin-wall spark plug socket
- 13/16%26quot; thin-wall spark plug socket
(There are 2 different sized plugs. Make sure they are thin-walled as some plugs are recessed in small holes. Good sockets will have a rubber grip insert inside to hold the plug while you remove it so it doesn%26#039;t fall, you could also use it as a plug starter %26amp; leave it on the plug and just plug in the extension %26amp; tighten. You can also get sockets that have built-in swivels on the ends that you can use with the one you already have if needed.)
- 3/8%26quot; drive ratchet
- 3/8%26quot; drive extensions of various lengths (1%26quot;, 3%26quot;, 5%26quot; 11%26quot;, 19%26quot; are the ones I have and can be combined together as needed. The reason for the long ones are that sometimes the best way to access plugs are through the wheel well with the car jacked up slightly. Also nice for plugs in the back so that you aren%26#039;t crawling onto the car to reach them.)
- flashlight
- mirror on an pivotable extension shaft (they make them just for automotive type of work. Get a decent sized mirror of 2%26quot;x4%26quot; or so to make it easy to use.)
- plug gap gauge (usually around $1-$2 at an auto parts store)
- can of compressed air (to blow dirt out around the base of the plug before removing it (find at most computer stores around $2-$4)
- plug wire puller may help for those tight spots
Sometimes it is necessary to move or remove engine parts (i.e. alternator, PS pump, A/C compressor, etc..) to gain access to certain plugs. A good set of metric and SAE combination wrenches and 3/8%26quot; drive sockets can come in handy.
Hope that helps. Best of luck.|||quality sockets with a nice fitting rubber, preferablly with an extension built in so as not to drop or pulloff...and a way to clean the area around the plug before removing.. allways hand start the new plug (after a gap check) with a low torque devise like an old plugwire boot or length of fueline hose.. if it doesn%26#039;t FEEL right going in it may be crossthreaded...and always wait for the engine to cool... best is overnight before removing plugs from allow heads..|||the basic tools are a socket, extension, ratchet, and a spark plug gap gauge....don%26#039;t take for granted that the plugs will come pre-set. you may also want a wire puller...just so you don%26#039;t mess your spark pug wires up. i know it sounds easy to change plugs in your car, but there is much more to it than you think....best of luck
Changing spark plug and part of it fell into the hole, what will this do and how do i fix it?
the piece is part of the tip. the white part, its not magnetic and my vaccuum isnt getting it. started the car up after installing new plugs and it started knocking and then just sounded bad. so how do i find it or what do i do to fix it|||Don%26#039;t try to start it again. Just don%26#039;t.
If you are competent enough to remove the cylinder head, do so, find the part, and then rebuild what you took apart. If you are not competent enough to remove the cylinder head, have it towed to a mechanic.
The little piece could scar the inside of the cylinder, and mess up compression, and that%26#039;s if you are lucky. The alternatives are even worse.|||Buy a new engine, or get yourself another car.|||blow the hole out with compressed air if ya dont have a air hose get one if you run it like that a piston or valve will go|||Sounds like it%26#039;s causing the spark to die. It%26#039;s getting in the way in otherwords. If you can%26#039;t get it out yourself, better take it in and have a pro look at it. I wouldn%26#039;t try sticking anything down in there, it might cause even more probs.|||basically you are looking at yanking off some heads.. probably damaged the cylinder by starting... if you hadn%26#039;t started it digging around with something sticky might have got it after major fighting.. now head has to come off to inspect for damage
sorry|||If you already started it, there is no other way to fix it than with removing the cylinder head. Don%26#039;t start it anymore, may be the head isn%26#039;t damaged inside yet, then you will just need to remove and reinstall the head. Take it to a mechanic|||You have a very bad problem there. You may have bent a valve. Or even (God forbid) cracked a piston. If the part you dropped came out you would have heard it going down the tail pipe.
The only way I know to get it out is to pull the head.
Put your hand over the tail pipe when it is still cool. Of you feel a sucking back up the pipe you have a bad exhaust valve. Blow back from the carb. Bad intake.
Pull the cap form the oil fill. If you feel air puffing up, cracked piston.
It would be best if you didn%26#039;t start the car again.|||Hey; Before you go and pull the head off try this: Get an attachment for your shop-vac that is used for like cleaning computers. It%26#039;s a little wand that would fit into the sparkplug hole or improvise with some hose and duct tape.
But you had a knocking when you started it? That could be very bad, sorry, this should have been an easy job, huh?
Good Luck
If you are competent enough to remove the cylinder head, do so, find the part, and then rebuild what you took apart. If you are not competent enough to remove the cylinder head, have it towed to a mechanic.
The little piece could scar the inside of the cylinder, and mess up compression, and that%26#039;s if you are lucky. The alternatives are even worse.|||Buy a new engine, or get yourself another car.|||blow the hole out with compressed air if ya dont have a air hose get one if you run it like that a piston or valve will go|||Sounds like it%26#039;s causing the spark to die. It%26#039;s getting in the way in otherwords. If you can%26#039;t get it out yourself, better take it in and have a pro look at it. I wouldn%26#039;t try sticking anything down in there, it might cause even more probs.|||basically you are looking at yanking off some heads.. probably damaged the cylinder by starting... if you hadn%26#039;t started it digging around with something sticky might have got it after major fighting.. now head has to come off to inspect for damage
sorry|||If you already started it, there is no other way to fix it than with removing the cylinder head. Don%26#039;t start it anymore, may be the head isn%26#039;t damaged inside yet, then you will just need to remove and reinstall the head. Take it to a mechanic|||You have a very bad problem there. You may have bent a valve. Or even (God forbid) cracked a piston. If the part you dropped came out you would have heard it going down the tail pipe.
The only way I know to get it out is to pull the head.
Put your hand over the tail pipe when it is still cool. Of you feel a sucking back up the pipe you have a bad exhaust valve. Blow back from the carb. Bad intake.
Pull the cap form the oil fill. If you feel air puffing up, cracked piston.
It would be best if you didn%26#039;t start the car again.|||Hey; Before you go and pull the head off try this: Get an attachment for your shop-vac that is used for like cleaning computers. It%26#039;s a little wand that would fit into the sparkplug hole or improvise with some hose and duct tape.
But you had a knocking when you started it? That could be very bad, sorry, this should have been an easy job, huh?
Good Luck
Spark plug changing question?
I%26#039;m 16 and I have my first car thats an old beater. my friend said i should change my spark plugs cause it%26#039;s old and i%26#039;m like cooll.. lets do it. so anywaz he says that i should tighten by hand only otherwise they might crack and break like when you change the oil filter. Is that true?|||NO. You should only start them by hand so you don%26#039;t strip the threads in the head, but once started they need to be tightened properly with a spark plug socket and ratchet. If you have the right tools, then tightening them without breaking them shouldn%26#039;t be a problem.|||Yes, hand tighten only!|||Yes, each plug has a specific torque that it should be tightened to to avoid damage to the plug and to the manifold itself.|||It is easy (and bad) to overtighten, but you should be tightening more than just by hand. Ideally, you should buy a torque wrench. Spark plugs are supposed to be tightened to a very specific torque, and using a torque wrench is the only way you can be sure you%26#039;re getting it right.|||its kinda true, tighten by hand but with your ratchet, tighten them wrist tight. u def want them tighter then just by hand, but just wrist tighten them with the ratchet. not to tight though. make sure u gap all the spark plugs the same before u put them all in.|||yes only hand tighten your plugs or the could break off in the head which is bad. you want them snug yes but don%26#039;t torque on them.|||get a bok on your car it will tell you what to and whatNOT to do make a mistakeand it will cost you more than the book to putright|||when putting in new plugs, hand tighten them first to avoid cross thread. Then when you use the socket go by torque spec or tighten them snug. I would also throw in a can of seafoam for your car. That will bring it back to life. Lots of video%26#039;s of how to use sea foam on cars in youtube. Anyways good luck.|||Ideally use a torque wrench.
Plus are tightened dependent on the type of engine.
Most are tightened to around 12lb/ft.|||Lots of good answers, first after sett ting the gap, you should use just a little bit of anti-seezing compound on the threads. You can easily seize one( especially ) in an aluminum head, then you got BIG trouble. Jusl a little !! Then thread it all the way by hand, and finish it off with a little tighten with the ratchet handle, but not too forceful. You can go too far %26amp; strip out the threads, especially on aluminum.|||hand tight and then about another 1/2 turn with the socket.
Plus are tightened dependent on the type of engine.
Most are tightened to around 12lb/ft.|||Lots of good answers, first after sett ting the gap, you should use just a little bit of anti-seezing compound on the threads. You can easily seize one( especially ) in an aluminum head, then you got BIG trouble. Jusl a little !! Then thread it all the way by hand, and finish it off with a little tighten with the ratchet handle, but not too forceful. You can go too far %26amp; strip out the threads, especially on aluminum.|||hand tight and then about another 1/2 turn with the socket.
When i was changing the spark plugs on my 1997 ford E350 (triton V10 6.8L) i nocked loose an orange plug?
i think that it came from somewhere near the spark plug holes on the engine? what is it do i need and what does it do?
thanks|||sounds like a fuel injector plug maybe.|||if it has direct ignition ( a coil for every plug) it might have been the pig tail for the coil, and if I%26#039;m not mistaken the fuel injectors are next to the coil so it might have been that also.
thanks|||sounds like a fuel injector plug maybe.|||if it has direct ignition ( a coil for every plug) it might have been the pig tail for the coil, and if I%26#039;m not mistaken the fuel injectors are next to the coil so it might have been that also.
I broke an ignition/spark wire, out of its housing when changing the spark plug, can I fix this?
It sat a bit tight and I did the worst thing by yanking on the ignition wire, resulting in it breaking out of the housing. So now I have a loose wire and I wonder if I can stick it back to the metal part that fits on the SparkPlug, and stick it through the rubber housing and use it temporarily?|||If the wire itself wasn%26#039;t damaged, you can just re-crimp on the metal end, and slip it back through the boot. However, the only good way to tell is to check the wire with an ohmmeter, to make sure you didn%26#039;t break the actual wire itself, which is the graphite impregnated part running through the middle. The rest is just insulation. Not that it isn%26#039;t important to have that too.
The reading on an ohmmeter should be a few thousand ohms per foot. If it%26#039;s OK, you can pry open the end of the metal part and re-crimp it, on most kinds. Or, if not, you can get a new one. Then just lube the inside of the boot with Silicone spay to make it easy to slide back in. Boots are also sold separately if that%26#039;s torn.
Also, if the wire is bad from this incident, it is probably just a break near that end. If you have enough slack, the wire can be re-cut shorter and re-do the end. Some people just buy the wire in bulk, and make up their own. Same as some shops I%26#039;ve worked at. A lot easier than having all those different sets in stock.
If the wire itself is OK, just fold the core that should be sticking out about a half-inch past the insulation, around to the side, so that the metal end contacts it when you crimp it. Same if you shorten it. You cut it where you need to, then trim away the insulation about a half-inch further back. Just like a piece of coaxial cable before you put the end on, except you fold back the middle part.
( I buy my coax in bulk too. Much cheaper, and you don%26#039;t end up with 10 or 20 feet of slack you don%26#039;t need)|||depends on how it%26#039;s done. some have the end that
screws onto the wire...remove the rubber and check
if not you can buy a replacement wire at a parts store.|||No...once you yank it out of the boot, it%26#039;s trash and needs to be replaced. If you try to use it, it will only cause a misfire.|||YES you can but you will have to slice open the boot.|||I suggest you just get new spark plug cables! It%26#039;s safer!|||If it just tore out of the boot(the part that goes around the end of the wire and the plug), you can stick it right back through, if it wasn%26#039;t damaged, or get a boot from an old set. Chances are, though, that you pulled the wire loose from under the clip(clamps onto the top of the plug) or broke the insulation, and will need to repair or replace it.If you have never done this before, practice on a few old ones first, to get the hang of it, or go buy new wire(s).
The reading on an ohmmeter should be a few thousand ohms per foot. If it%26#039;s OK, you can pry open the end of the metal part and re-crimp it, on most kinds. Or, if not, you can get a new one. Then just lube the inside of the boot with Silicone spay to make it easy to slide back in. Boots are also sold separately if that%26#039;s torn.
Also, if the wire is bad from this incident, it is probably just a break near that end. If you have enough slack, the wire can be re-cut shorter and re-do the end. Some people just buy the wire in bulk, and make up their own. Same as some shops I%26#039;ve worked at. A lot easier than having all those different sets in stock.
If the wire itself is OK, just fold the core that should be sticking out about a half-inch past the insulation, around to the side, so that the metal end contacts it when you crimp it. Same if you shorten it. You cut it where you need to, then trim away the insulation about a half-inch further back. Just like a piece of coaxial cable before you put the end on, except you fold back the middle part.
( I buy my coax in bulk too. Much cheaper, and you don%26#039;t end up with 10 or 20 feet of slack you don%26#039;t need)|||depends on how it%26#039;s done. some have the end that
screws onto the wire...remove the rubber and check
if not you can buy a replacement wire at a parts store.|||No...once you yank it out of the boot, it%26#039;s trash and needs to be replaced. If you try to use it, it will only cause a misfire.|||YES you can but you will have to slice open the boot.|||I suggest you just get new spark plug cables! It%26#039;s safer!|||If it just tore out of the boot(the part that goes around the end of the wire and the plug), you can stick it right back through, if it wasn%26#039;t damaged, or get a boot from an old set. Chances are, though, that you pulled the wire loose from under the clip(clamps onto the top of the plug) or broke the insulation, and will need to repair or replace it.If you have never done this before, practice on a few old ones first, to get the hang of it, or go buy new wire(s).
I need a walkthrough on changing spark plug wires on a 2001 mitsubishi galant, 4 cyl.?
Can anyone tell me if this can be done at home, or if i need a mechanic. I have the kit that I need, which I purchased at an auto parts store...|||Disable the battery connection first.
It totally can be one a home. First locate al four wires at the plug base leading to the distributor. Grab by the boot, itll make it much easier to get out and remove. Once you reattach the new wires to the plug and the distributor make sure they pop into place. Do the wires one at a time and take a picture before hand just in case. I%26#039;d also recommend changing the plugs if you haven%26#039;t of course. Spraying on some electrical joint cleaner on the ends of connections and letting it dry 15 minutes won%26#039;t hurt.
Once you have changed te plugs out one by one reattach the battery and take her on a spin.|||Change one at a time, shortest first.|||Lay the new wires out by length. Remove old one and find the new one that matches it in length. Replace that one %26amp; move on to the next, making sure you replace with matching length.|||it is very simple. just unhook and replace one wire at a time, routing it the same way as the old wire. make sure the ends of the wire are pushed firmly onto the spark plugs and terminals. it is imperitive that the wires are hooked up in the proper order, so that is why you should replace them one at a time. if the engine misses after you%26#039;re done, with the engine off check and make sure they are tight, don%26#039;t check them while the engine is running because they probably have 30,000-50,000 volts going through them, and you%26#039;ll get a hell of a shock, won%26#039;t hurt you, but trust me, you don%26#039;t want it!|||as long as your auto savvy enough. sure follow the above guy%26#039;s advice, its not that hard|||Yes it can just do them one at a time , only use factory original plugs . saves alot of headaches|||It%26#039;s easy and takes about 30 minutes.
Lay out the new wires from long to short.
Remove 1 wire from distributor and compare length, replace
Choose next wire, Etc,etc|||Did the wire set ( only 2 wires ) come with the 2 coil boots? The coil boots are the parts most likely parts to cause an engine miss.
Replace the spark plugs with the stock NGK plugs, not the Champions.
Unbolt the coils leaving the plug wires attached yet. Believe it or not I had an Eclipse 4 cylinder towed in because a mechanic couldn%26#039;t get the motor to run right after replacing the plugs. He had the only two plug wires reversed! WTF kind of mechanic was that?
You can purchase the coil boots from the Mits dealer without buying the whole coil. The coil boots just pop off and slip back on. Replace the 2 wires after the coils go back on the motor.
It totally can be one a home. First locate al four wires at the plug base leading to the distributor. Grab by the boot, itll make it much easier to get out and remove. Once you reattach the new wires to the plug and the distributor make sure they pop into place. Do the wires one at a time and take a picture before hand just in case. I%26#039;d also recommend changing the plugs if you haven%26#039;t of course. Spraying on some electrical joint cleaner on the ends of connections and letting it dry 15 minutes won%26#039;t hurt.
Once you have changed te plugs out one by one reattach the battery and take her on a spin.|||Change one at a time, shortest first.|||Lay the new wires out by length. Remove old one and find the new one that matches it in length. Replace that one %26amp; move on to the next, making sure you replace with matching length.|||it is very simple. just unhook and replace one wire at a time, routing it the same way as the old wire. make sure the ends of the wire are pushed firmly onto the spark plugs and terminals. it is imperitive that the wires are hooked up in the proper order, so that is why you should replace them one at a time. if the engine misses after you%26#039;re done, with the engine off check and make sure they are tight, don%26#039;t check them while the engine is running because they probably have 30,000-50,000 volts going through them, and you%26#039;ll get a hell of a shock, won%26#039;t hurt you, but trust me, you don%26#039;t want it!|||as long as your auto savvy enough. sure follow the above guy%26#039;s advice, its not that hard|||Yes it can just do them one at a time , only use factory original plugs . saves alot of headaches|||It%26#039;s easy and takes about 30 minutes.
Lay out the new wires from long to short.
Remove 1 wire from distributor and compare length, replace
Choose next wire, Etc,etc|||Did the wire set ( only 2 wires ) come with the 2 coil boots? The coil boots are the parts most likely parts to cause an engine miss.
Replace the spark plugs with the stock NGK plugs, not the Champions.
Unbolt the coils leaving the plug wires attached yet. Believe it or not I had an Eclipse 4 cylinder towed in because a mechanic couldn%26#039;t get the motor to run right after replacing the plugs. He had the only two plug wires reversed! WTF kind of mechanic was that?
You can purchase the coil boots from the Mits dealer without buying the whole coil. The coil boots just pop off and slip back on. Replace the 2 wires after the coils go back on the motor.
Why won't my truck start after changing spark plugs?
Have checked spark plug gap. Ran fine before changing the plugs.||| if you wiress aren%26#039;t cross you got the right plugs and set the correct gap and you wont tell us make an model then let me ask did you crank the engine with plug wiress disconnected cause if you did then the dist. is toast|||hmmm you probably got the spark plug wires mixed up
if you get a crank no start then thats probably the problem cuz you cant mess up a car that fast
just search your make and model on google images and look for a pic of the engine and see how the wires are lined up|||it%26#039;s because you accidentally disconnected something when you were doing it. does it crank? or crank no start? come on, need more info.|||you probably did not plug the cables in the right places in the correct sequence
|||spark plug wires not seated properly?|||did you gap the plugs to the right gap measurements?|||Double check the wires like the others said. Change your air filter.
if you get a crank no start then thats probably the problem cuz you cant mess up a car that fast
just search your make and model on google images and look for a pic of the engine and see how the wires are lined up|||it%26#039;s because you accidentally disconnected something when you were doing it. does it crank? or crank no start? come on, need more info.|||you probably did not plug the cables in the right places in the correct sequence
|||spark plug wires not seated properly?|||did you gap the plugs to the right gap measurements?|||Double check the wires like the others said. Change your air filter.
Will changing my spark plug wires make a difference in performance ?
The ones I have on my 1990 Integra are still good as far as I know.|||Get them checked. IF they are ok, then there is no need. At times the wires can get damaged and thus doesnt give full power so u should replace them. Your car is 16 years old, so better to get them checked even if u think they are ok.|||New plugs will likely give you more performance (if they are over 30k miles old). You can test your spark plug wires with a multimeter, check their resistance individually...should be nearly the same for each spark plug wire. If one is way off, you need new wires if not, you are probably good.
MikeC|||Changing your spark plug wires will not make a difference in performance if the wires the new wires are replacing are still good.
If your plug wires on your 1990 Integra are the originals, they need changing.
One layman way to tell is to open your car%26#039;s engine hood at nite so the engine compartment is dark and run your engine. If you see some sparks jumping from your wires, then they are bad.
Your wires could still have an open spot in them in which the above method will not detect.
Good luck|||it could help you never know till you try it|||The only way to enhance ignition performance would be to try a larger spark plug wire. Nology spark plug wires are a better choice if you%26#039;re worried about performance. Second would be to upgrade your ignition coil. This will allow for more amperage and a more consistent spark. Hopefully this answers your question!|||Not a bit if the old wires are good|||Yes.
How do you know they are still %26quot;Good%26quot;?|||Of course, if your running stock wires, you can upgrade to 7 or 9 mm wires, which cause more spark to be present at the plug, but everything is related, so running a good set of split fires or other premium plugs will only enhance the wires. You could probably get at most 2 to 3 horsepower running those 7 mm, and maybe 5 with the 9mm, but the 9mm will cost you prolly close to $200, for a good set, not the checkers specials....|||If they are original they%26#039;re now 16 years old. Like everything else under the hood they are exposed to high temperatures %26amp; contamination. The best way to find out whether they are functioning properly is to take it to a local shop %26amp; have them do a diagnostics check. If you%26#039;re looking for a performance boost then think about changing to something like Accel wires %26amp; MSD ingition. It won%26#039;t give you a significant kick in the butt. You will however notice a difference. Both products are available at any performance shop.|||Copper plug wires are the best. Are these what you have? If not, get some. the performance will improve
MikeC|||Changing your spark plug wires will not make a difference in performance if the wires the new wires are replacing are still good.
If your plug wires on your 1990 Integra are the originals, they need changing.
One layman way to tell is to open your car%26#039;s engine hood at nite so the engine compartment is dark and run your engine. If you see some sparks jumping from your wires, then they are bad.
Your wires could still have an open spot in them in which the above method will not detect.
Good luck|||it could help you never know till you try it|||The only way to enhance ignition performance would be to try a larger spark plug wire. Nology spark plug wires are a better choice if you%26#039;re worried about performance. Second would be to upgrade your ignition coil. This will allow for more amperage and a more consistent spark. Hopefully this answers your question!|||Not a bit if the old wires are good|||Yes.
How do you know they are still %26quot;Good%26quot;?|||Of course, if your running stock wires, you can upgrade to 7 or 9 mm wires, which cause more spark to be present at the plug, but everything is related, so running a good set of split fires or other premium plugs will only enhance the wires. You could probably get at most 2 to 3 horsepower running those 7 mm, and maybe 5 with the 9mm, but the 9mm will cost you prolly close to $200, for a good set, not the checkers specials....|||If they are original they%26#039;re now 16 years old. Like everything else under the hood they are exposed to high temperatures %26amp; contamination. The best way to find out whether they are functioning properly is to take it to a local shop %26amp; have them do a diagnostics check. If you%26#039;re looking for a performance boost then think about changing to something like Accel wires %26amp; MSD ingition. It won%26#039;t give you a significant kick in the butt. You will however notice a difference. Both products are available at any performance shop.|||Copper plug wires are the best. Are these what you have? If not, get some. the performance will improve
Any tips on changing a spark plug on a Yahama WR250, its buried right down in the engine head?
Will I have to take off the tank ?
Can I take off the tank without having to drain it ?
I think I might need a special socket to reach down into the engine head ?|||tank stays on,you can get it from the r/h side....
i use a 3/8th drive plug socket and a 3/8th drive %26#039;%26#039;wobbly joint%26#039;%26#039; and ratchet....|||special socket called a spark plug socket and sure you can take tank off just shut off fuel line wil shut off fuel|||Yes, A spark plug socket, you should not have to pull the tank. If you do just shut the fuel valve off on the line coming out of the tank. Is this just a maintenance change or did it foul? Either way if you replace it make sure it is a NGK brand spark plug. to prevent problems down the road later.Champion plugs will foul out easier.|||you do need a special socket but any motor factors should have it as for the tank its not too much hassle to remove it and you will need to. (you dont have to drain it as there is a plastic tube for the fuel line.) in new models|||Removing spark plugs normally require a special socket. Removing the tank is simple enough. with the cut off switch on, clamp the fuel line. remove the tank. OR sythen the fuel (presuming you know how, pipe in the tank, with it lower the the tank (on the outside) suck, till it runs).
Be careful when replacing spark plugs, make sure to get no oil or grease on them.
hope this helped.|||I have an adjustable extension that makes it real easy from me to change my plugs.|||not sure you have to take off the tank
I%26#039;d use a flexible spark plug wrench
works for CRF should work for WR
if you prefer taking off the tank
simply close your fuel supply valve
Can I take off the tank without having to drain it ?
I think I might need a special socket to reach down into the engine head ?|||tank stays on,you can get it from the r/h side....
i use a 3/8th drive plug socket and a 3/8th drive %26#039;%26#039;wobbly joint%26#039;%26#039; and ratchet....|||special socket called a spark plug socket and sure you can take tank off just shut off fuel line wil shut off fuel|||Yes, A spark plug socket, you should not have to pull the tank. If you do just shut the fuel valve off on the line coming out of the tank. Is this just a maintenance change or did it foul? Either way if you replace it make sure it is a NGK brand spark plug. to prevent problems down the road later.Champion plugs will foul out easier.|||you do need a special socket but any motor factors should have it as for the tank its not too much hassle to remove it and you will need to. (you dont have to drain it as there is a plastic tube for the fuel line.) in new models|||Removing spark plugs normally require a special socket. Removing the tank is simple enough. with the cut off switch on, clamp the fuel line. remove the tank. OR sythen the fuel (presuming you know how, pipe in the tank, with it lower the the tank (on the outside) suck, till it runs).
Be careful when replacing spark plugs, make sure to get no oil or grease on them.
hope this helped.|||I have an adjustable extension that makes it real easy from me to change my plugs.|||not sure you have to take off the tank
I%26#039;d use a flexible spark plug wrench
works for CRF should work for WR
if you prefer taking off the tank
simply close your fuel supply valve
Should I change spark plug wires since I am replacing spark plugs?
I want to replace spark plugs in my car.
Primary reason is it has 80k miles and I think it needs changing. Second is spark plugs are very cheap. Only $2 per spark plug. I was wondering if I should be change spark plug wires as well since I would have to remove them to get to spark plugs. Or just change spark plugs and keep old wires. Bad part is wires themselves are kind of expensive, about $40 I think.|||Yes! The wires can be slightly bad %26amp; only misfire sometimes but still cost you more than $40 in gas over a years time.|||If the wires show not signs of wear, it is probably safe to keep the old wires. That said, for $40 to $50, I would replace the wires along with the plugs. As another answer suggested, it is important to ensure the wires are not crossed during replacement. The easiest way to prevent that is to only remove one wire at a time, and replace it before removing any more wires.|||Since the car is at 80k i would change the wires as well. Only remove one wire at a time and put the new wire on, then take off the next wire. If you remove them all you could have trouble remembering which one goes where.|||my shop would recommend wires but personally if your not having any problems they should last at least 100-120k.unless they have already been replaced by cheap wires then i would spring for the new QUALITY wires.(delco,motorcraft,etc)
Primary reason is it has 80k miles and I think it needs changing. Second is spark plugs are very cheap. Only $2 per spark plug. I was wondering if I should be change spark plug wires as well since I would have to remove them to get to spark plugs. Or just change spark plugs and keep old wires. Bad part is wires themselves are kind of expensive, about $40 I think.|||Yes! The wires can be slightly bad %26amp; only misfire sometimes but still cost you more than $40 in gas over a years time.|||If the wires show not signs of wear, it is probably safe to keep the old wires. That said, for $40 to $50, I would replace the wires along with the plugs. As another answer suggested, it is important to ensure the wires are not crossed during replacement. The easiest way to prevent that is to only remove one wire at a time, and replace it before removing any more wires.|||Since the car is at 80k i would change the wires as well. Only remove one wire at a time and put the new wire on, then take off the next wire. If you remove them all you could have trouble remembering which one goes where.|||my shop would recommend wires but personally if your not having any problems they should last at least 100-120k.unless they have already been replaced by cheap wires then i would spring for the new QUALITY wires.(delco,motorcraft,etc)
My sister took her ford scape to ford dealer they charged her $500.00 labor for spark plug changing!?
Is $500.00 fair price for changing spark plugs on a 2001 ford scape
V-6? they say they need to remove intake manifold in order to that? has my sister been overcharged? if you are a mechanic or know about this things please advice! you help will be greatly appreciated! thanks.|||What is the labour rate at the dealer where your sister took her car? Ford Platinum plugs cost about $20 each. $20 times 6 equals about $120. That leaves about $380. Yes, in order to access and replace the back three plugs requires the upper intake to be removed. With a labour at about 3.5 hours at $100 per hour, that adds up to $350. Add $350 plus $120 and that equals about $470. This leaves about $30 for whatever taxes are, where you are located geographically. That being said, it sounds about right. So in answer to your question, NO your sister hasn%26#039;t been overcharged by the sounds of things. Hope this helps.|||You%26#039;re Welcome.
|||book time and parts can add up to the 500.00|||There are domestic cars that, when using a transversely-mounted V-6 (engine turned sideways), have almost no room to get behind the manifold. I had a 1990 Chevy Lumina that in order to get to the rear spark plugs, you had to unbolt the engine mounts up front, use a pry bar to rotate the engine toward the front and then tie it down with tow straps. That was right out of the Haynes repair manual! A total pain!
As for the Escape, check the link down below; it%26#039;s a picture tutorial on performing the job on an Escape. The main thing to note is the author saying, %26quot;...isn%26#039;t a really difficult job, but can be quite time consuming.%26quot; I don%26#039;t know how long %26quot;time consuming%26quot; is, but the dealership is going to be charging something like $90/hr. Does it take 5 hrs? Hmmm...I don%26#039;t know about that.
You might go to a local independant shop and ask them how long the job takes. Shops don%26#039;t punch the clock when they work on your car, they go by a flat-rate based on how long the factory determined a job would take. They may be able to justify why it cost that much or debunk it altogether.
Note: Appears that I and the poster above me where writing at the same time and grabbed the same article! Gotta love it!|||The v6 Escape - like many other sideways mounted V6%26#039;s, are very difficult to access the back side of the engine - and to complicate the matter, often times the intake manifold covers the back side and makes access impossible without removing the intake. It%26#039;s ridiculous - and it demonstrates the designers total ignorance when items that are subject to replacement are buried in some inaccessible area - heater cores in a great many vehicles come to mind (typical part $100 - average labor $400+)|||They are correct in that the intake manifold does have to be removed to change the spark plugs on the Escape, you cannot reach around the engine, they are actually under the intake manifold. Here the platinum plugs are only 7 bucks each, and figure in new intake gaskets, I would not want to reuse the old ones. What was the hourly labor rate for the dealer? Here it would have been around 300 for the entire job, depending on the labor rate, you may have been overcharged. If they charge 100 an hour or a little more, it may be close, if less than that an hour, your sister got taken for a ride unless they did other services with it as well, such as an induction service and oil change, etc.|||I don%26#039;t know about this specific vehicle, but if I can charge 500.00 on book time for changing 6 spark plugs in anything on this planet, then I%26#039;m in the wrong business...
I think she got hosed down big time......
V-6? they say they need to remove intake manifold in order to that? has my sister been overcharged? if you are a mechanic or know about this things please advice! you help will be greatly appreciated! thanks.|||What is the labour rate at the dealer where your sister took her car? Ford Platinum plugs cost about $20 each. $20 times 6 equals about $120. That leaves about $380. Yes, in order to access and replace the back three plugs requires the upper intake to be removed. With a labour at about 3.5 hours at $100 per hour, that adds up to $350. Add $350 plus $120 and that equals about $470. This leaves about $30 for whatever taxes are, where you are located geographically. That being said, it sounds about right. So in answer to your question, NO your sister hasn%26#039;t been overcharged by the sounds of things. Hope this helps.|||You%26#039;re Welcome.
Report Abuse
|||book time and parts can add up to the 500.00|||There are domestic cars that, when using a transversely-mounted V-6 (engine turned sideways), have almost no room to get behind the manifold. I had a 1990 Chevy Lumina that in order to get to the rear spark plugs, you had to unbolt the engine mounts up front, use a pry bar to rotate the engine toward the front and then tie it down with tow straps. That was right out of the Haynes repair manual! A total pain!
As for the Escape, check the link down below; it%26#039;s a picture tutorial on performing the job on an Escape. The main thing to note is the author saying, %26quot;...isn%26#039;t a really difficult job, but can be quite time consuming.%26quot; I don%26#039;t know how long %26quot;time consuming%26quot; is, but the dealership is going to be charging something like $90/hr. Does it take 5 hrs? Hmmm...I don%26#039;t know about that.
You might go to a local independant shop and ask them how long the job takes. Shops don%26#039;t punch the clock when they work on your car, they go by a flat-rate based on how long the factory determined a job would take. They may be able to justify why it cost that much or debunk it altogether.
Note: Appears that I and the poster above me where writing at the same time and grabbed the same article! Gotta love it!|||The v6 Escape - like many other sideways mounted V6%26#039;s, are very difficult to access the back side of the engine - and to complicate the matter, often times the intake manifold covers the back side and makes access impossible without removing the intake. It%26#039;s ridiculous - and it demonstrates the designers total ignorance when items that are subject to replacement are buried in some inaccessible area - heater cores in a great many vehicles come to mind (typical part $100 - average labor $400+)|||They are correct in that the intake manifold does have to be removed to change the spark plugs on the Escape, you cannot reach around the engine, they are actually under the intake manifold. Here the platinum plugs are only 7 bucks each, and figure in new intake gaskets, I would not want to reuse the old ones. What was the hourly labor rate for the dealer? Here it would have been around 300 for the entire job, depending on the labor rate, you may have been overcharged. If they charge 100 an hour or a little more, it may be close, if less than that an hour, your sister got taken for a ride unless they did other services with it as well, such as an induction service and oil change, etc.|||I don%26#039;t know about this specific vehicle, but if I can charge 500.00 on book time for changing 6 spark plugs in anything on this planet, then I%26#039;m in the wrong business...
I think she got hosed down big time......
1996 Chevrolet Blazer spark plug changing?
I have heard this can be a tricky model to change the spark plugs on. Can anyone explain to me in detail and maybe provide pictures on where the spark plugs are and how to access them?
Thank you!|||It is easiest to change them if you remove the front tires. There is a flap of material that you can lift up and put your socket and extension straight in. The hardest part is getting the plug wires off. The #1 cylinder (front driver%26#039;s side) is dang near impossible to get off without a $25 special tool or removing the steering shaft. The shaft isnt too hard to get off, there is one bolt you have to remove and the shaft slides off steering box. Just be careful that the steering wheel doesnt rotate (it should be locked) or you could cause damage.|||patients is the key word, just be careful not to pull off vaccum lines or all the other stuff crammed in your way. take your time,replace one at a time located on side of motor. purchase an auto repair manual for this model blazer at an auto parts store, has pictures and help walk you through this step by step procedure. Good luck and the manual will always come in handy for any other do it your self stuff on the vehicle.|||It Isn%26#039;t any harder than a normal car or truck to change your Blazer plugs.They are in the same place as in other cars or trucks.
Thank you!|||It is easiest to change them if you remove the front tires. There is a flap of material that you can lift up and put your socket and extension straight in. The hardest part is getting the plug wires off. The #1 cylinder (front driver%26#039;s side) is dang near impossible to get off without a $25 special tool or removing the steering shaft. The shaft isnt too hard to get off, there is one bolt you have to remove and the shaft slides off steering box. Just be careful that the steering wheel doesnt rotate (it should be locked) or you could cause damage.|||patients is the key word, just be careful not to pull off vaccum lines or all the other stuff crammed in your way. take your time,replace one at a time located on side of motor. purchase an auto repair manual for this model blazer at an auto parts store, has pictures and help walk you through this step by step procedure. Good luck and the manual will always come in handy for any other do it your self stuff on the vehicle.|||It Isn%26#039;t any harder than a normal car or truck to change your Blazer plugs.They are in the same place as in other cars or trucks.
Changing spark plug on a 2003 Chevrolet Impala?
Ok, well the first three are easy. Took like 5 minutes, but how the hell do you get to the other three in the back? Is this a do it yourself job, or do you need special equipment to get to those? It%26#039;s so frustrating. I never had difficulty changing these...ever.|||Do what Mark said.
There are two anti-roll brackets in the front of the car from the radiator support to the engine. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the braces. Don%26#039;t worry, the engine wont go anywhere.
Then use a ratchet strap attached to one of the bracket mounts on the engine and to the radiator support to roll the engine forward and hold it in place. You will have tons of room to reach back there and get to the spark plugs now.
Best of Luck!|||Most folks unbolt the the front engine mounts and roll the engine forward using a small tie down strap from radiator support to lift loop(or whatever you call it).|||if i wre u, take it in. u can hurt urself and the caps and headers if u do something wrong. or the whole car. take it in
There are two anti-roll brackets in the front of the car from the radiator support to the engine. Remove the 4 bolts and remove the braces. Don%26#039;t worry, the engine wont go anywhere.
Then use a ratchet strap attached to one of the bracket mounts on the engine and to the radiator support to roll the engine forward and hold it in place. You will have tons of room to reach back there and get to the spark plugs now.
Best of Luck!|||Most folks unbolt the the front engine mounts and roll the engine forward using a small tie down strap from radiator support to lift loop(or whatever you call it).|||if i wre u, take it in. u can hurt urself and the caps and headers if u do something wrong. or the whole car. take it in
Does changing the spark plug on the Tc make any difference?
I was wondering if changing the stock sparks on the TC give it better performance and which are the best?|||dont run anyother brand but what came in the car, they are made to run with the cars computer. any changes may cause the computer to think something is wrong|||Yea dont waist your money on %26quot;performance%26quot; sparks, its all a big hype. Unless your car is running rough then stick to the stock sparks. Save your money on a cold air intake or exhaust if your trying to improve performance.|||no not really sparks are need to spark the fuel and air mixture. all spark plugs do the same thing and some are design to last longer life span(100,000miles). don%26#039;t bother with upgrading spark plugs. you rather use the money on exhaust turbo.
How does changing spark plug affects the fuel efficiency?
i have a %26#039;07 toyota corolla
pls serious answers only...
thanks so much!!!|||The spark plug introduces the initial spark that starts the fuel mixture burning, with high performance plugs, like v-fire, split fire, etc. The belief is that the enhanced spark kernel is better at propagating the flame front. In this way the fuel burns more completely and travels across the combustion chamber in a more efficient manor.
Platinum and iridium plugs are more durable, last longer and take less electricity to fire.
When the spark plug starts to erode (wear) the tips and electrode down, the electrical load needed to jump the %26quot;gap%26quot; increases, this increase in electrical load tends to wear all the components in the secondary side of the ignition system. ( cap , rotor, wires, coil). The reason so many coil packs fail, IMO.|||with an 07 it doesn%26#039;t. It matter whens you have old worn out plugs and the spark is not what is used to be. I wouldn%26#039;t bother changing your plugs..its a waste of time and money unless you need them.|||It helps burn the gas more evenly so it doesnt just burn up fast. It does help a lil bit
pls serious answers only...
thanks so much!!!|||The spark plug introduces the initial spark that starts the fuel mixture burning, with high performance plugs, like v-fire, split fire, etc. The belief is that the enhanced spark kernel is better at propagating the flame front. In this way the fuel burns more completely and travels across the combustion chamber in a more efficient manor.
Platinum and iridium plugs are more durable, last longer and take less electricity to fire.
When the spark plug starts to erode (wear) the tips and electrode down, the electrical load needed to jump the %26quot;gap%26quot; increases, this increase in electrical load tends to wear all the components in the secondary side of the ignition system. ( cap , rotor, wires, coil). The reason so many coil packs fail, IMO.|||with an 07 it doesn%26#039;t. It matter whens you have old worn out plugs and the spark is not what is used to be. I wouldn%26#039;t bother changing your plugs..its a waste of time and money unless you need them.|||It helps burn the gas more evenly so it doesnt just burn up fast. It does help a lil bit
How do i know which spark plug wires go to which place when changing my spark plug wire on my 99 chevy tahoe?
My new spark plugs wires dont have numbers or anything, how could i possibly tell which one is which? and do different spark plug wires have different powers?, i would assume so, since they are different lengths.|||You change ONE at a time and match up the length of the old with the new as you go. Remove one end of the wire and follow it to its destiniation, disconnect it, match it up with the new wire and install the new wire. Move on to the next one and repeat until they%26#039;ve all been changed.Do not remove them all from your engine at once. Change them one at a time so you dont mess up the firing order.|||They do not have different powers.
Best way to change them if not familiar with this job, is to take them out one at a time and replace with the new one of like length, that way there should be no confusion.|||Your in luck, your distributor cap has numbers on the top of it (1, 2, ... 8), so you know which plug to hook to which location.
The cylinder (plug) numbers are laid out like this on the motor:
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Bumper
So when you look at the motor, that is the layout.
You can easily remove all the wires at once, because of the numbers on the top of the cap. Then match up the plug wire length and install the new wires.
I fool-proof way is to remove and replace one plug wire at a time! Then you know what you removed so you know where to replace. Just use the same length wire as you removed.
The different lengths are just lengths, it has nothing to do with the amount of power supplied to the plugs (virtually anyway. If the wires were REALLY long they would have a larger resistance and reduced power to the plugs, but you don%26#039;t need to worry about that).
Best way to change them if not familiar with this job, is to take them out one at a time and replace with the new one of like length, that way there should be no confusion.|||Your in luck, your distributor cap has numbers on the top of it (1, 2, ... 8), so you know which plug to hook to which location.
The cylinder (plug) numbers are laid out like this on the motor:
8 7
6 5
4 3
2 1
Bumper
So when you look at the motor, that is the layout.
You can easily remove all the wires at once, because of the numbers on the top of the cap. Then match up the plug wire length and install the new wires.
I fool-proof way is to remove and replace one plug wire at a time! Then you know what you removed so you know where to replace. Just use the same length wire as you removed.
The different lengths are just lengths, it has nothing to do with the amount of power supplied to the plugs (virtually anyway. If the wires were REALLY long they would have a larger resistance and reduced power to the plugs, but you don%26#039;t need to worry about that).
What do you do if you are changing your spark plugs in your car, and the spark plug breaks in half?
My husband was taking a spark plug out of a 96 Sunfire and it was in too tight. He tried to use a torque wrench to get it out, and it broke in half under the nut. There is barely any visable and is down about 2%26quot; in the spot where the spark plug goes. Please only legitimate answers if you can help!|||He still shoud be able to get it out. The ceramic is on the outside of the nut. He should be able to torque away now. He just needs to get his socket down over the plug as much as possible. Maybe spray some liquid wrench in there first as well.
-- sorry, I thought you meant the ceramic, but if the nut itself broke, and there%26#039;s nothing left to latch on to it%26#039;s much worse. These other guys are right.|||go buy a left handed drill bit, and a set of ez-outs. (ez-out is a brand name, and most hardware stores will know what you are talking about) drill the center of the spark plug out with a left handed drill bit about 3/16 diameter, then tap the ez-out into it. turn the ez out just like you would if it had a socket on it... it should come right out :)|||They usually break where the porcelain meets the hex. If it broke further dowm than that, you%26#039;ve really got a problem. You may can use an easy-out to get the balance of it out, but there will be parts of it down in the cylinder. A small vacuum and a magnet may or may not get all the junk out, but you may be looking at pulling the cylinder head.
If the hex is still there, (if a socket fit on it) use some penetrating oil and unscrew what is left of the plug, chase the treads out wiyh a tool, and put in a new plug.|||ez outs|||dont mess around with an ez out or anything like that. you will do more damage then good. if you can remove the head your self then take it to a michene shop thay have all of the right tools to fix it. this happend to me at work the other day. then when you put new plugs in use so anti- seez on the plug threds and only torque them down a little bit that will prevent this problem in the future|||Josh is pretty much right. be prepared to spend a bit of money. To prevent further damage, the head must come off to remove the plug and repair the galled threads which caused the problem. You should be able to drive without damage but it will run like c**p. In the future, use an anti seize compound on the threads to make removal easier. Also if this happens again stop as soon as the plug starts to get harder to turn. let it cool a bit and use plenty of penetrating oil to slowly work it back and fourth until it comes out. good luck.|||next time put what is called anti seeze is helps stop this kinda problem. hopfully you well only need to tap it out with a tap and die set it is pretty simple you drill a hole in the spark plug then you use a peice called a tap and you put the drill in reverse and hope the rest of the spark plug comes out. i am not sure but you might want to spray some w/d 40 in there to to keep it from seizing up any more along the way of coming out.|||tell your husband to get a easy out and try to get the broken piece out.if he ruins the threads get a heli coil and put a new plug in it.
-- sorry, I thought you meant the ceramic, but if the nut itself broke, and there%26#039;s nothing left to latch on to it%26#039;s much worse. These other guys are right.|||go buy a left handed drill bit, and a set of ez-outs. (ez-out is a brand name, and most hardware stores will know what you are talking about) drill the center of the spark plug out with a left handed drill bit about 3/16 diameter, then tap the ez-out into it. turn the ez out just like you would if it had a socket on it... it should come right out :)|||They usually break where the porcelain meets the hex. If it broke further dowm than that, you%26#039;ve really got a problem. You may can use an easy-out to get the balance of it out, but there will be parts of it down in the cylinder. A small vacuum and a magnet may or may not get all the junk out, but you may be looking at pulling the cylinder head.
If the hex is still there, (if a socket fit on it) use some penetrating oil and unscrew what is left of the plug, chase the treads out wiyh a tool, and put in a new plug.|||ez outs|||dont mess around with an ez out or anything like that. you will do more damage then good. if you can remove the head your self then take it to a michene shop thay have all of the right tools to fix it. this happend to me at work the other day. then when you put new plugs in use so anti- seez on the plug threds and only torque them down a little bit that will prevent this problem in the future|||Josh is pretty much right. be prepared to spend a bit of money. To prevent further damage, the head must come off to remove the plug and repair the galled threads which caused the problem. You should be able to drive without damage but it will run like c**p. In the future, use an anti seize compound on the threads to make removal easier. Also if this happens again stop as soon as the plug starts to get harder to turn. let it cool a bit and use plenty of penetrating oil to slowly work it back and fourth until it comes out. good luck.|||next time put what is called anti seeze is helps stop this kinda problem. hopfully you well only need to tap it out with a tap and die set it is pretty simple you drill a hole in the spark plug then you use a peice called a tap and you put the drill in reverse and hope the rest of the spark plug comes out. i am not sure but you might want to spray some w/d 40 in there to to keep it from seizing up any more along the way of coming out.|||tell your husband to get a easy out and try to get the broken piece out.if he ruins the threads get a heli coil and put a new plug in it.
Changing spark plug for better gas mileage?
I recently read in a magazine (not a car magazine) a list of things to do to increase gas mileage. On the list was changing your spark plug. Is this true? Or is it so small as to be insignificant?|||that%26#039;s the main part of it ,that%26#039;s what determines how much fire gets to the cylinder to make it burn the gas,if the plugs are old and worn out the gas mileage is going to be way down,the gap in them will get father apart and cause it to loose gas mileage real bad, and also power,adding new plugs to one can only help it not hurt it,and they usually pay for them self in the savings on the amount of gas you,ll save,good luck.|||your welcome.
|||it is true but only if your spark plugs are worn out. If they are still good then there is no point.|||It will help! its part of keeping your motor running well, and a motor that runs well keeps your fuel mileage from dropping|||it%26#039;s not that small of a thing. i usually put in bosch when i change mine and they last a little longer for me, or they did in my ford, but now i have a dodge.|||Carbons build up on the plugs electrodes over time. This prevents the plugs from performing their best. It is just a small amount but it makes a difference. If you want to spend the money you can replace your plugs with some platinum ones. Platinum plugs burn hotter and cleaner.|||Only put in the OEM recommended plugs. Different makes of vehicles use different temperature ratings on their plugs. Sometimes you can get a very mild increase in mpg by spending lots of money on high end specialty plugs, but the cost generally outweighs the benefit.
Use the OEM recommended plugs, and only change them at manufacturer recommended intervals unless they go bad.|||when plugs gets alot of miles on them, they get weak and dont fire as good and when that happens, you burn raw gas, which in turns you use more gas to get where your going.thats why you need to change the plugs when it calls for.|||changing ur spark plugs is the best to do for your gas mileage,, changing ur air filter or keeping it clean @ all times too. also keep the right air pressure in your tires and check your PCV valve and make sure your Oxygen sensors are ok and your service engine light its not ON.
Report Abuse
|||it is true but only if your spark plugs are worn out. If they are still good then there is no point.|||It will help! its part of keeping your motor running well, and a motor that runs well keeps your fuel mileage from dropping|||it%26#039;s not that small of a thing. i usually put in bosch when i change mine and they last a little longer for me, or they did in my ford, but now i have a dodge.|||Carbons build up on the plugs electrodes over time. This prevents the plugs from performing their best. It is just a small amount but it makes a difference. If you want to spend the money you can replace your plugs with some platinum ones. Platinum plugs burn hotter and cleaner.|||Only put in the OEM recommended plugs. Different makes of vehicles use different temperature ratings on their plugs. Sometimes you can get a very mild increase in mpg by spending lots of money on high end specialty plugs, but the cost generally outweighs the benefit.
Use the OEM recommended plugs, and only change them at manufacturer recommended intervals unless they go bad.|||when plugs gets alot of miles on them, they get weak and dont fire as good and when that happens, you burn raw gas, which in turns you use more gas to get where your going.thats why you need to change the plugs when it calls for.|||changing ur spark plugs is the best to do for your gas mileage,, changing ur air filter or keeping it clean @ all times too. also keep the right air pressure in your tires and check your PCV valve and make sure your Oxygen sensors are ok and your service engine light its not ON.
Subscribe to:
Posts
(Atom)